A new century for Marine Stars
This will be the third installment of my Marine Star musings. In Part 2 got up to around 1998. I can’t see a fourth because after about 2005 the watches mostly begin to lose interest for me. Overall, they just became big, boring, less interesting. I continue to collect old Marine Stars because new styles pop up that I have never seen and then I can’t contain myself. So, I will probably just do updates to these three posts.
The Marine Stars of the 2000s continued to follow the lead of Tag Heuer (TH) and others, so the designs became more hard edged, simpler, streamlined and bigger as the first decade of the new century ends with Citizen taking over Bulova. Watches started getting bigger across the board of course, not just with Bulova. As I mentioned in Part 1, the efforts by Citizen to streamline and standardize the line will eventually transform the modern Marine star into a completely different watch.
At the same time as Bulova followed the trends of TH with Link and Kirium styling, they continued to slip back to the mid-90s S/el look at times. You will see this with a 2005 example. This makes is harder for collectors like me to build a continuous clear evolution of designs over the years, and hard to assign a date to a watch at first glance.
Still some Fun
Before I get into the 2000s, I dragged in this beauty from 1999. This is another style that seems to have been made over more than one year. I had other examples of this watch before I got this one, but they were dated 2003? So, I was surprised that this one was dated four years earlier. To make things even more interesting, I have seen one dated 1993 with a Swiss movement, assembled in Hong Kong? Then later, I saw one dated 1996! This supports my observation that within the Marine Star line, styles randomly come and go, and/or are continued over several years. Maybe they come from different factories?
I love the look of these watches! Small and thin and detailed and nautical. The two-tone dressy diver lives. Maybe it looks a bit dated compared to watches of this time, but it has some nice rounded corners, delicate lugs and Tag Heuer 2000/4000/Breitling styling. It also has the original brown leather strap.
The style, color and patina of the strap are so nice, I don’t wan to change it. It is however, starting to come apart at the business end. The fact that it is on leather, too, makes a statement that this is less diver and more dress watch? Not a single other Marine Star I have between 1996 and 2000 has leather. They all have integrated bracelets.
I really like this bezel design! The gold 10 minute tab-projections on the flat brushed silver bezel, the dots are all elements I can’t trace to one other TH or Bretling watch, but are a compilation of bits from many watches. Then there is the diver-style dial layout with Squelette-style hands. Another important change is a 6 o’clock date window. To top it off the champagne gold color dial. The dial really changes the character of the design as you will see compared to a later silver with black dial version. It may be too much for some, but it is so 90s. Even Eddie Bauer released this same design in a more dramatic, slightly rougher version with one of its store branded watches.
Alien Design
Let’s bring in the new century. This fine example of a 96B39 was new old stock. It came to me in basically unused condition. A watch that nobody wanted to wear for 23 years? It is a robust watch compared to many of my mid 90s Marine Stars with its beefier case and solid links that fit closer together. Then there is the first integrated link that fits around the center three lugs of the case; it doesn’t move and projects out and down at a curve, effectively giving the watch a 57mm lug-to-lug length! But, because it curves down it does not seem too big for my 6.75 in. wrist. The shape of the links is a new look too; a three section curved V shape. The center is polished and the wings brushed.
Overall the watch seems to move into the integrated bracelet Sports watch group and out of the dressy diver group? The two-tone gold is gone! The bracelet is a mix of TH Kirium,6000 and S/el. Its starting to get that streamlined, solid, spine-like feel. Capt. Nemo becoming more space age and reminds me of the Alien movies. This is not a loose, floppy bracelet. You cannot flatten it out. Its almost becoming a bangle with sections.
The unidirectional bezel still has a diver feel and resembles the bezel on a TH 6000. The dial is starting look like the contemporary TH 2000 with the Arabic number 12 only—not 12, 3, 6 and 9. The baton hands are like the TH 2000 and the hour markers are getting more squared corners.
Again Bulova mixes a soup of many ingredients with the styling. The case resembles a TH 6000 but has longer tapered, but beefy outside lugs. I am repeating myself, but Its like they took a TH 6000 and started improvising to get the essence without copying directly. Its not a styling I like as much as the TH 6000. The bracelet integrates like a TH Link, too, which I think came out in 1999. But Bulova was doing that 3-lug thing before with the MS in 97. This leads into what I have been saying; that bout this time, the MS started getting out of my design comfort zone.
I don’t really care for the Tag Heuer Kirium or the Link that evolved front the S/el. It all got too weird and spacey for me. Rightly, you have to give TH credit for pushing out. This watch for me, falls in that transition zone between the Marine Stars I like and the the ones I don’t. I do like this one, but it is a move away from most I have.
This next MS, I just realized will be leaving my collection. There are too many strikes against it. There are some things I like, then every time I wear it I would be bothered by other things. Like the 96B39 just covered at length, this blue-dialed 98G71 is from the year 2000. It must be another MS designed to come in at a lower price, because the lower quality, compared to the 96B39 is noticeable. It makes me ask why Bulova needed to have so many different versions of Marine Stars and have some less expensive? Its 36mm x 45mm lug-to-lug, but because of those first links off the case that protrude out, its really 49.5mm. They do curve down, so aren’t as noticeable.
When I see some of these online, they look better than when in hand. Its hard to research most of these since they are 20 or more years old and some were not maybe particularly popular, or produced in large numbers? Reviews are scarce as well as catalogs. I always give blue dials a second look and I like the two-tone and diver-style of most. This one has an interesting bracelet with crescent cut joints between the links. When the solid links pivot on their pins the gold coating between the links is revealed. It has the boat shaped hour markers that I like of Marine Stars and an new style of skeleton hands. The crown really is long. The overall shapes of the case and bracelet are TH Kirium-like and the bezel is more TH Series 6000. I don’t really like the Kirium look as much as I try, and the bezel on this watch is nondescript. The marks on the bezel are not filled with black paint. Has it worn off? That said, I have seen a 2001 version that did have the paint, and a crown that did not extend as far? The gold decoration on the bezel looks cheap. Worst of all, it doesn’t turn. So, as I said, this one will be shown the door.
Now that I have condemned that blue one, one I’m in a pickle with its sister up next, the 98G72, white/silver chronograph/alarm. It is dated 2002. Same Kirium-like styling, similar looking bezel, that does turn, but is really hard to grip! I have to take the watch off and use both thumbs to turn it. So, it might as well not turn? It also has more detail in that the markings are filled with black paint. This one has more functions, of course. The case is slightly bigger at 37.5mm and 45mm lug-to-lug. Same first links that extend out and down to 52mm. Its 13mm thick compared to the 10mm of the three hand. The same bracelet with gold coated crescents between links.
This chronograph uses the Miyota 0S80 quartz movement. Mine appears to have problems; the small seconds is not moving and can’t be reset for 1/20th chron. timing. I continue to have problems with MS chronographs…So, I now have to decide if I like the watch enough to get it repaired. At least this movement does seem to be available new and used from various sellers. There is a blue/silver version of this, model 96B56, from 2000, with no gold, which I think is more legible.
Ok, this next one is chronologically out of place in my list, being dated 2001, but I wanted to keep the two before together. It is one of my favorite Marine Stars, and a keeper. It has all the elements: 37mm, diver hints, dressy flavor, two-tone, but not too crazy. This is the 98G50 from 2001. It looks older to me? This is what confuses me with Bulova during this time; they go back to earlier MS styles and randomly do them over? As I show in Part 2, we saw this style bezel in 1997. Then again we get a melting pot of inspirations; Seamaster 200, TH 2000, and a 90s looking bracelet. Its 80s and 90s stuff with definite Bulova MS hands and boat-shaped hour markers mixed with dots.
Whatever it is, I love it. There was, of course, a smaller women’s version and maybe a chronograph? This one also has more polished that brushed parts. Its all about the black and gold bezel on this one for me.
Swiss Bulova?
Now things are changing up somewhat. We are still pre-Citizen, but this model is using the more modern model numbering system; BU-6027G. Its a very interesting watch, but at the same time raises questions. I don’t see a date code, like older watches, so I am not sure of the date. I have not had luck trying to date the model number either. It must be between 2003-2006?
It also uses the tuning fork logo on bezel and bracelet. This could have something to do with it being a Swiss made (or Swiss Ronda movement) watch? It has the TH Kirium/6000 styled bezel and a 17mm two-tone bracelet with links that resemble the shape of links on the 2000 96B39 above. These links though, are smaller. The whole watch is lighter more delicate than the 96B39. More like the links of the 1996 98B78. I have not opened the case yet. It has a screw down crown, but still rated at 100m WR. The bezel does turn, is unidirectional, but is hard to grip and doesn’t easily turn. I’m guessing that’s the reason the one missing decorative rivet head on the bezel! If they had just copied the TH 6000 bezel, there would be actual cut-outs that would provide grip!
I like the overall brushed finish. I also like the look and feel of the bracelet. It hints at the the Link style, but is its own thing. The plain white dial is classic Marine Star with pill shaped applied hour markers and Mercedes-style hands. This one has Arabic numerals at 12, 6, 9 and a date window at 3 o’clock. The numbers and hour markers are lume filled with gold outlines.
This MS has one of my favorite bracelets and a great dial, but I just wish Bulova had put more effort into the bezel. They probably rationalized that these watches are not really tool watches and would most likely not be turned. They were probably right.
This next one will look familiar because I talked about it at the top, with a 1999 model. These two are from 2003. Its one of my favorite MS designs. I’ll try not to repeat myself, and concentrate on the black dial 90B51.
I get the feeling these were popular? Easier to produce? I see preowned examples for sale regularly. They have a distinctive familiar look but at the same time are a unique Bulova blend. Its interesting that gold was used on the hands and hour markers of the black version, but not on the bezel like the gold version. This 18mm black two-piece strap of waterproof leather is not the original. I think I will look for another more interesting strap? The gold 90B50 is on a 18mm sage colored nylon NATO. I’m not sure how I came to choose this strap over a leather? If I remember right, the gold came on a knackered brown leather strap. I haven’t really experimented much with straps, but this green color and sheen seemed to work well with the gold dial? Even so, I don’t think this watch is right with a NATO strap?
These bezels with six projections at 10 minute increments are easy top grip for turning. I like everything about these two and that they each have a different character — the black sporty, the gold dressy. The black dial even comes with a black crown. Again, note the unusual 6 o’clock date location for Marine Stars. This design with its flat bezel and leather is a departure from the S/el look of most Marine Stars in this era, but still has elements that fit with many from these Glory Days.
I am up to 2005 already. This Marine Star 98C31 was another new old stock purchase in flawless condition. Here we go again; back to S/el style with Bulova flourishes. It has a silver sector dial, not white and adds day to date. The two section y-shaped links has gold decoration and the jewellery clasp again!
The build quality is good and it is in new condition so first impression is good. It has good weight and feels like a nice watch. Its hard to place the design to a particular year, but it fits in the mid 90s-early 2000s vibe. Still only 37mm, it has the newer Bulova tuning fork logo at 12 o’clock applied on the dial and etched on the clasp. There is lume only on the hands, but not the hour markers?
The silver sector dial is a nice change. TH 6000s ans S/els were using a sector dial in the 90s. This was also used on the 1999 98G62 which I covered in Part 2. The case, bezel and bracelet are all brushed and the two-tone gold is used well. The shapes coated in gold have an Arabesque flavor. The protrusions on the bezel make turning easy. Its turning away from the TH Kirium/6000 streamlining and going back to knobby TH 2000/4000 bezel and S/el bracelet. Why? Was the Kirium look not selling, new management? I’m glad, and I really like this look. Its very S/el but manages to get some flatter surfaces in there to update the look. It feels more like a diver but still dressy. There is no indication on dial or back of Japan or Swiss parts/mfg. I’m assuming a Miyota movement and watch assembled in Hong Kong?
I’ve come to the conclusion that I am not very good at doing internet searches? Why is it so hard to find Bulova catalogs from the ’90s, or any year? Is there not any organization storing or scanning old catalogs? The 1990s and early 2000s were a turbulent time for Bulova, but, is there not some data base out there somewhere? Even most of those selling these old watches online really know very little about them, especially the year of manufacture.
I’m slotting this BU6022G into the early 2000s by the process of association with the details of other Marine Stars I have. This is another “Swiss” version, which I am coming to think just means a Ronda movement. Even this model number is dubious because I know an example of this watch with a white dial that has the same number on the case back? This one I did open, clean and give a new battery. It appears to be a Hong Kong assembled watch with a Ronda movement instead of a Miyota movement.
This type of MS that I have, like the BU6027G above, uses a distinctive case back with a printed black label with the model number etched on the steel. They also have screw-in crowns, but still at 100m WR, not the 200m of the mystery “Swiss” I showed in Part 2. But, I don’t know how to date this type without a two-digit date code on the case?
The silver dial on this one really sets it apart. Like the 98C31 just before this one above, which used a silver dial, it expands the range. There is a white dial version of this watch too, but the silver gives it a very different feel? It matches the brushed bezel, case and bracelet. Does it make it more of a diver, or sporty than the normal white? The numbers are quite wide. The bezel style also reminds me of a TH 4000 but without the “dots”? This example has some wear, but is really in good shape. The firs thing to go is usually some of the gold plating details. This one has also lost some of the black paint detail in the 1875 and Bulova tuning fork logo.
The 18mm bracelet is not really noteworthy. It integrates into the typical MS three lugs and does not taper. This one does not have the diver extension, but does have the gold plated logos. The solid links have gold plating down the center sections. Overall, its another fun watch among the dressy divers that looks like it is leving the 90s for the 2000s.
I got this white dial version after the silver one. It is in like new condition with brushing and gold looking fine. Just a great watch for this genre; solid build, nice movement and great looks. I think I prefer the silver dial, but both are fun. I don’t know if the Silver and White dials were available the same years or if one followed the other.
Transition
Its time to wrap up the Marine Star Glory Days. I will do that with a pair from 2006/2014 that really attract me. They are a good bridge from the 90s Bulova the late 2000s Citizen look that is coming.
This design marks the move away from the 90s S/el organic curves. I’m a bit stunned by the date codes on these because at first I thought they were two years apart; 2004 and 2006. But, as I started writing this post, I realized that the 2004 date code is really 2014! The silver/black is 8 years older but essentially the same design. One pre-Citizen, one after.
The silver/white dial 98C72 with black has no gold decoration, and the “gold” 98C71 has less prominent gold on it compared to earlier models. It has a pale champagne dial and gold plated raised bars on the bezel and gold crown. On the dials, the 98C72 has a white dial, a center sector with vertical brick texture and uses silver around the wedge shaped hour makers and hands, while the 98C71 is trimmed in gold. This hour marker shape with straight sides and sharp corners also signals the end of the circles, pills, and “Bulova boats” that I love. The tuning fork logo is at 12 o’clock. Probably most important change is that the cases are now up to 40mm across.
The bezels are the prominent element of this design. The cases are so generic they disappear. They are simpler than the past but bold and resemble TH 2000 or Aquaracer styling. They look more like stacked layers than an insert in a bezel? On the silver one, the bottom disc is black. On the gold, it is gold coated. I wonder what if the designers had made them both black? Or would a black crown look good on the silver/black one like the 90B51 above? The differences between the two are subtle but give each a different character. The silver more sporty, the gold more dressy?Naturally the gold gets brown leather, the silver black leather.
The 2-piece textured leather straps are pretty nice with contrast stitching and slight padding but are not unique by any means. They taper from 20mm to 17.5mm and both use a the same nice polished buckle with Bulova tuning fork logo.
Either the style was in production from at least 2006 to 2014 or Citizen brought it back later? Was there a gold version in 2006? I have seen a listing for a gold one dated 2011. regardless, I’m sticking to my first impression that the styling is very TH 2000 and that this style continued and got bigger and uglier, if more capable. I’m surprised this watch was still in production in 2014. Its a little boring compared to the mid 90s Marine Stars, but something I can still enjoy, just. Its losing the vintage/neo-vintage flair and its diver ties. This bezel is getting abstract and too minimalist with lack of markings or detail. Beyond this, I mostly say, ‘No, thanks’.
I will probably pick up a few more Marine Stars from what I call the Glory Days because styles unknown to me continue to pop up as I do research, and they speak to me, begging to be added to the collection.
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