MVMT X Nigel Cabourn Diver LE

Unlikely Collaboration?

I did it because of Nigel. A few hours ago I knew really nothing about MVMT or its watches. Did those two guys do a tv commercial a few years ago? I use no social media apps except for Pinterest, maybe? I don’t have any social media apps on my phone. I had never been to the MVMT web site I could remember. I never remember seeing a MVMT watch that was interesting to me? From what I have seen or know, my first thought is I am really not interested with MVMT. There is nothing there for me. I really don’t like the minimalist design look and the fast fashion world though I’m sure I am a participant in some ways. I am a long time fan of “fashion” watches, in my own niches, just not MVMT.

MVMT?

When I did go to their site for the first time to see about this Nigel Cabourn collaboration, it seemed information on watches was very shallow? On the other hand it is very deep with marketing hype! This is not my generation. But…dare I say it, it reminds me of Fossil or Swatch 35 years ago? Is that a good pre-social media comparison? Besides this NC collaboration, I don’t think there is any watch they sell that I would buy? Maybe another 40mm Cali or the smaller Field? That is why the collaboration is so interesting to me; it doesn’t seem to fit MVMT unless they are trying to broaden their line.

Then I started reading reviews of MVMT watches and the company itself from over the last several years. I discovered that Movado acquired MVMT in 2018. I’m not really a fan of current Movado watches, either. I don’t like the classic bare dial Movado look. I do like that SE Diver auto, but it is a bit big and over my price range. Even the “women’s” version is 41mm but without the cool two-tone blue dial version?! Movado itself is doing another collaboration now with Derrick Adams. Is that something new for them? I do like Adam’s art work, but not so much the bare dial watches. I think some applied hour markers over the art would actually make the blending of time/art more interesting.

So, the first thing I ask myself is, “what has changed at MVMT since 2018?” I did find some discussion on A Blog to Watch and Arial Adams 2018-19 and Ben’s Watch Club, 2022. I did see a lot of watch enthusiast sites posting lots of negative things about the MVMT products and operations. I read the concept of Movado wanting access to that low-end market where young people are discovering watches. I guess I could say Timex and Swatch and Fossil brought me into the watch enthusiast world the same way.

Ironically I was researching various Vaer models from over the years when Google algorithms dropped the MVMT x Nigel Cabourn collaboration in front of me. Two guys from Venice, CA went another direction from two other guys in Venice, CA? I wonder how MVMT influenced Vaer? Now when I look at the latest MVMT divers I wonder how the newer Vaer Pacific line influenced the MVMT Cali solar divers?

Divers Watch?

I did it because of Nigel. What!? Another N. Cabourn watch collaboration? Not Timex. I had to see. Once I got on the site and looked at the basic information on the watch, all the images, all the marketing, I thought, “No, I can’t get a MVMT?” “But it’s Nigel.” I looked at price, specs: NH39a(typo), ISO-certified, mineral crystal, 200m, 40mm, “lugs look long?”…”No”. “but its Nigel.”30% off sale, free shipping,…Crazy packaging…I’ve over-paid for fashion watches before, two straps, LE of 500; should I wait? It doesn’t even have a name other than Divers Watch?! That’s pretty basic? I knew I was getting one no matter what I told myself.

I started writing this days before the watch was in-hand. I wondered who approached whom? Did Movado or the MVMT level talk to N. Cabourn’s people or the other way around? How much say in the design did N.C. have? The MVMT team is supposed to be creative? Did they see Nigel Claybourn as a good fit for their customer demographic? Did Movado? Nigel Cabourn is not what I would consider cheap fashion? Timex seemed to have more watches that fit better with N.C.’s vision. Is MVMT going more military-inspired? Was it because MVMT was moving into auto and solar divers? Did N.C. pick the diver?

Cali Diver

They don’t even call the NC collab a Cali or link it to the others? I keep looking at this diver to see what about it is like the way NC did the Timex watches. The first thing I noticed was that the broad arrow was not on the dial. Its on the rotor of the movement. I’m not familiar with the NC-in-circle logo on the dial. Two straps is familiar. Interesting packaging is expected. The straps don’t seem particularly original? The watch is standard diver fare? But, maybe it is new ground for MVMT? It seems more traditional, more vintage(but still modern) than they have done? It does look different from the other Cali divers. It is not too much different from many vintage military inspired divers in this price range.

Its kind of hard not to like this well-known look? Case aside, its NC bringing a Rolex Milsub 5513/5517 look to MVMT. Its a look that’s been done countless times by countless watch companies. But, we still like it. The marketing material doesn’t specifically mention this model or the post-war affiliation with the SBS. Instead, NC talks about WWII equipment. While not a replica, per se, it hints at many attributes of a 5517.

The colors are bold. The Hamilton Khaki Navy Green came to mind when I saw this dark olive bezel insert and dial on the website images. I also saw a Helson Sharkdiver with orange/yellow lume? The dial is black. The aluminum bezel insert is a very dark green. The teeth on the bezel are more aggressive looking than on the other Cali models. No 24hr scale. Nothing much really to the plain “diver” dial layout. No date. The outstanding features are the orange lume and the NC logo. Its as if the lume was done purposely more orange than just a fauxtina look? This is probably the simplest design n the Cali line? It is a weighty steel watch. Pretty tall plus sitting on two layers of strap. The sword hands are interesting, too. Both hands are the same sword, but with a wider as well as longer minute hand.

Thankfully the case is 40mm not the 42mm or 45mm of other MVMT divers I know of. I measure the lug-to lug at 49mm, which is ok for my wrist. The other Cali 40mm versions are GMTs. Again, I’m glad this is not a GMT. I think these are all new, so did NC get to design the old school, basic, no-date version? It seems to be the least MVMT-like of the bunch? The brushed case finish seems pretty standard. I wish the case had been faux-aged or antiqued in some way like his Timex Naval Officer watch. The MVMT logo on the crown even resembles the Hamilton H. Whatever its combination of design cues is, I was attracted to it on first glance. Must be the subconscious processing. Then I saw the x Nigel Cabourn reference; Hooked.

A couple of other specs stand out. This is the only 40mm Cali with mineral glass. The movement is listed as a NH39a on the site, but it is a NH38a. I believe the 39 is for a design with a open heart and 24-hr sub dial? It has a screw-down crown between hefty guards. This model is $50 less than the other Cali 40s.

The Straps

This may have been one of the big compromises for N.C. to make in this collaboration? The fabric used and the brushed hardware do not resonate with the usual NC touches. They look pedestrian in materials and design, like a cotton/nylon ribbed? Probably the same as the other Cali models with fabric straps? They seem a bit shorter than “standard”, but ok for me. Maybe NC got to pick the colors? There is some applied graphics on the underside. There is the green with yellow stripe and a Grey. The stripe one has the ’60s-’70s Marine Nationale feel while the Grey is classic British military issue for the last 50 years. You see, the thing with his Timex collaborations is that NC got to add some unique materials, colors and patterns to make the straps stand out from the usual Timex models. The straps were as important as the watch. That said, Timex paid a lot of attention to the straps for many other models in the Archive era. With NC collabs I am used to there being one unique fabric strap and one leather. One other note: I tried to unscrew the heads on the strap bars and they don’t want to move? Maybe just for looks?

The Historical Inspiration

The marketing copy regarding Nigel Cabourn’s inspirations is classic NC collaboration stuff; ’60s SBS canoe ventile smock, SBS canoes/camouflage, then the Chariot mini subs of WWII. That’s a lot to work with, but I’m not sure what got into this collab? I tried researching all those details and it is not easy to link specific things to this watch. On the case back there is what looks like a Chariot MK1 mini sub. It’s interesting, too, that old Panerai ads had a similar min isub images. The camouflage he speaks of is not clear. The smock or the canoe? With this watch there is green, black, grey and orange lume.

While not canoeist smocks, the two “Dennison” smock images above show different camo patterns. The brown/green/gold on left is the “standard’ WWII while the gold/greens on the right is described as “unusual” and is from post-WWII. Maybe this is one is the one NC mentions in marketing copy?

Most images of the smock I found were solid olive. Most of the canoe images I found were solid green or black.The masks on these WWII re-breathers on this Chariot crew must be the inspiration for the packaging.

This might have been one of those times I would not mind a custom NC camo strap? Maybe I will try a camo NATO on this; I tried a Haveston Denison single layer I thought might be perfect for this theme?

Because the fixed bars are pretty tight to the case, the leather tabs on the strap end took a little work to squeeze though.(Update: Haveston strap not working out. I can’t get the bars to unscrew, so the strap is a pain to get on and off because of a faux leather tab sewn around both sides of the strap end. Makes it about 3mm thick and the leather tab gets stuck on the way out.)

Packaging

I don’t usually like the excessive packaging many watch brands use. Buuutttt… I love this crazy diving mask box! Who thought of it? Nigel Cabourn Timex collabs have always had something original. Most were cool fabric pouches, some metal boxes. So, this part of the collab gets high marks. However, they skimped on box printing; just a subtle olive type on the front. Even the little khaki fabric label inside is spot on NC . The box is not real easy to open, but its great. This might be a box that is kept out instead of being tucked away, so might lead to wearing the watch more?

Final thoughts

I’m going to call this collaboration an expansion for MVMT’s line. It got me to go study MVMT watches. Were it not for the NC connection, I would not have done that. At the same time It reinforces my opinion that I don’t really care for any other MVMT watch. Again, looking at MVMT watches, it is surprising to me they brought in Nigel Cabourn. I hope they sell out fast. Mine was 483/500, but I don’t know if they shipped in order from 1? I think it was released in Oct 2024, but I didn’t see it until Jan 2025. I’m not sure who is buying this? Nigel fans or dive fans, or MVMT fans?

There might not be much original about this watch as a diver, but it is right in my wheelhouse and I’m okay with that. It has some presence. I had a good time looking into all the historical Nigel Cabourn inspirations, too. Maybe it was intended to help move the normal MVMT customer deeper into watch enthusiasm — expand the appreciation of watch genres? Classic auto dive watches with historic military link. The basic Cali line is itself an expansion of the normal MVMT fare.

Looking at it as a Nigel Cabourn effort alone, I think it is missing some things I would want. Like I said earlier, the strap and the case finish could have been more like the Timex NC watches I love. If you are going to bring in Nigel, go all the way! To me an NC watch is not so much a watch as an integration of a watch into a bigger design experience. That to me is why watch makers get something they would never think of when they bring in an outside designer who is not a watch engineer.

I’m ok that it is not a spec watch like, say, a Vaer. Even though it says its ISO-certified, a 200m watch. It lacks the sapphire, higher level lume, bezel insert details. It has more character than a Vaer black Meridian with white lume and black strap, that can seem a bit tool-sterile. Its a tweener — between a fashion watch and a tool watch. But, you should still be able to take it swimming and flash some original style. The orange lume might scare some off, but it is unusual and fun. With a NC collab, you are taken somewhere beyond the watch.