Intriguing upscale move. Why?
Watches can be funny things. We love to discuss them. Its almost as if they exist more for the enthusiast community to talk about than to wear! One can look at a watch from so many different perspectives. Sometimes its technical, sometimes historical; could be emotional or the design details. We may talk economics or performance. Lots of times each one of us gets something different from a single watch.
The concept of the Timex Atelier line really has me thinking about the watch industry as a whole as much as these watches specifically. Like many brands making many different products, it is always tempting to move up market to find more profits. For Timex to make this kind of jump in price seems risky in this economic environment? If people are spending less on watches — I’m assuming that includes Timex level customers — maybe Timex has figured that those higher up the food chain, in the $1000 segment are a better bet for sales?
What is Timex?
One of the first things I thought of was that the general watch person does not associate Timex with $1000+ watches. Maybe it would be better to drop the Timex from the dial? Some of the higher priced Timex projects like American Documents or the Galli S1 didn’t seem to go big, so why this now? Some of the other collaborations did hold their own and command big prices and even bigger resale prices. I question whether people want to see a $1000 Timex? It’s weird. The $500 price range, I think, would hold more potential for growth? That price point seems more in line with the culture of the brand.
The watch enthusiast or collector will take the plunge for a unique Timex in low numbers, but what I mostly hear is people don’t want to get a Timex for $1000 when they can get a better spec micro brand for the same amount. There is a perception of a lack of value in a Timex at that price. Moving into this segment will mean a whole new level of quality for value if they are to be successful. It is a brutally competitive segment, especially for divers. Timex is going to have to be very good for a long time to change peoples’ perceptions.
I don’t really know what I am talking about regarding watch pricing and Timex’s bottom line. I’m thinking more about characteristics of watches as I know them in certain categories and what I expect. I expect compromises in Timex watches; for them to be more show than go. At the same time I have often thought Timex usually is a great value for what you get. When you move into the $1000 range, the rules change. It is less about fashion and more about performance and materials value. You don’t get as many free passes.
I think many micro brands are working on thin margins delivering quality for value prices. Maybe Timex’s scale and resources can get them competitive in this sector? It’s as if Timex purposely moving into someone else’s turf, enthusiast turf, and want to make a statement. They are saying, “I don’t belong here, yet, but I will.” Like the phrase on the website says, “This is luxury, the Timex way.”
The Marine 1a, “A modern design surfaces”
I suppose I should state some specs: 41mm, stainless steel, 200m WR, sapphire crystal, Catena SA100 auto movement with 36hr power reserve.
I like dive watches. I like Timex watches. I want to like the Aetlier diver, but it better be good enough(or likable enough) for $1000. After reading about it, seeing photos and watching a video review on In The Loupe, I don’ think I get the gut feeling I want when I have to pay $1000 for this watch. With the Atelier, there is much to be admired, but it is not motivating me to spend. If you don’t get that instinctive emotional impulse right off the bat, looking deeper doesn’t usually tip the scale? I want to like it more! It is a tough market segment. The concept of an upscale Timex is appealing, but the details have to be just right. The story has to be right. There are lots of interesting original things about the Marine 1; the case construction, the bracelet, the dial. It is cool looking at first glance because it is familiar as a diver but different in the details. Trying to be objective it seems a bit overwrought. An assemblage of disparate parts. Not graceful or elegant in its basic form; Leggos come to mind. All of the pieces don’t seem to flow together?
There is so much going on it does not come across as a cohesive design. There is a unique case similar to the Galli S1 and S2, a unique bezel, hour markets that move off the dial, bracelet that does not require tools to take off links, a butterfly clasp, a very square set of crown guards; all interesting but each fighting for attention. It is complex. As Galli says, “… it is designed to be discovered over time”‘ or “the details emerge”.
Now, this may seem like I don’t like the watch. I do, but am not compelled to get one at $1000 at this point. There are a bunch of cool components, but why? To be different, to be modern. There is now a GMT variant that is clearly a design sibling. I am not a GMT person, but I think this watch is better as a GMT than a diver? So which came first? Is it a modular concept with either a dive module attached as the Marine 1 or a GMT module attached to become dual time travel GMT24? What is the story here?
The story is Timex wants to move into a higher priced segment. Again, this seems to be about the watch industry rather than this watch. Did anyone ask for this watch? Did Timex customers say they wanted a $1000 diver and a $1400 GMT? They use the word luxury in their marketing. Does a Timex customer want luxury? As a collector or speculator this could be interesting. As a design, a 3D sculpture, this is interesting. As a unique take on diver visual language this is compelling. But, why?
As a tool watch/diver is it purpose driven? No. One thing that came to mind as I looked at the case, crown guards, bezel chines and bracelet is that it will be hard to clean muck out of it. With all it’s nooks and crannies, it does not seem born for the life aquatic? This is the thing with Timex, they don’t have this type of watch in their lineage. If you look at their current Reef/Meridian or the Expedition lines you would expect something more like a Victorinox Pro Diver in this price range? If going down to a more reasonable $600; the Victorinox Journey. They feel right for the DNA of Swiss Army brands. The Atelier does not feel right for Timex.
Closing musings
I think this watch is an exercise in watchiness, if you will. It’s a way to get products in the “enthusiast space”. It’s a cool watch, but a watch with no background experience to draw on. It seems to be an assemblage of specs wrapped in a unique package to get some enthusiast cred. You can say it is an extension of the Galli design language of the S1, S2, a way to do more in a higher price range. First of all, if you want watch nerds to dig your product, you at least need to say what movement is in it on your site!
It makes me think of the reality that most dive watches bought by watch enthusiasts are not for diving, but for use as discussion pieces with the enthusiast crowd, as I’m doing here. Like a lot of watches, this Atelier Marine1 is not born out of a water man’s needs but of a brand’s need to get presence in a watch community. It is a way for Timex to say they can make something better spec than they are currently doing.
Why don’t they make a $1000 Reef? I guess you could say they already have a $800 xJames GMT LE? Their $500+ titanium Reef didn’t even have adequate lume. Fix that and a better bracelet/strap and movement. I guess what I am saying is they could make a better $800 diver than the $1100 Atelier? Work from what they have.
It’s sort of a backwards way of getting into the enthusiast realm? If they would just make a better product at a lower price, you will get the buzz you want. You will be pulled into the enthusiast space instead of pushed into it by marketing. They need the authentic story and product to be in the line for long enough to prove they deserve to move up.
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