Bulovas Old and New
Military-related watches get my attention. I just decided to use this label; military-related, which I don’t think I have used before? I know I have used military-inspired many times or military themed, maybe. Military-style for sure. Sometimes its just easier to use military watches even though it could be misleading. Lots of people call any watch with any military style characteristic a military watch.
The trouble is that most military-style watches are not military watches. To me, the two words military watch together mean the watch was issued by the military or was manufactured under some contract with the military. It can be a semantic exercise at times or confusing other times. Then you have the watches that were civilian watches put in military settings that become militarized, so to speak, like the Cpt. Willard Turtle via a movie or the SOG Seikos by necessity. Any watch taken by its owner into a military setting can take on those experiences.
I have been in and around the military my whole life and have been a history reader since I was a kid. Surplus military clothes or military-inspired designer clothes interest me, so I try to slip in some khaki, greens or camo in my daily wear while trying not to look like I am on safari! I also am a vintage junkie. That means vintage military related watches will always get a look from me.
I was late to start vintage or military watch collecting. Even when I was in the Army I did not think about any watch being a military watch? Watches were watches. I did have an original Casio G-Shock or two, but did not really think about water resistance at the time. I just didn’t want to mess up a nice watch. Thing is, I didn’t have nice watch either, whatever that might be?
2020 Hack
I had several watches throughout the ’80s and ’90s, but never considered myself a watch guy until about 2017. Nevertheless, I was always a “thing” guy, a mechanical guy. I always liked cars and models, and wood working, art, just making stuff. I always thought watches were cool things as a kid, but they did not particularly interest me. Swatch and Fossil got me interested in watches as design objects, more like graphic design on a 3-D thing.
COVID got me deep into watches. I had time to spend researching watches and watch history. That’s when I realized how serious people were about military-related watches. At first, I wanted nothing to do with vintage watches. I was happy collecting Timex military-style or field-style watches. Then I started finding vintage mechanicals at estate sales and started experimenting with broken vintage divers to rescue. I know a watchmaker who can get just about anything operational again.
As I read more about military watches, I, of course, ran into reviews of the new Bulova Hacks. I wanted something auto and nicer than my Timex quartz Mk1s. Not really knowing the background of the Hacks at the time, I liked the clean functional look and the military association. As usual I looked for preowned to save money, because at that time, it was a lot of money for a watch, to me. I think it was the black dial 98A255, with red 24 hour track that I got first. The white or cream dial 96A246 appealed to me, too, so one of those was coming soon.
I find it interesting to compare an contrast vintage watches with their modern “reissues”. Generally the idea is to give the flavor of the vintage piece while providing a more modern movement and improved water resistance and durability. Also, one of the most noticeable “upgrades” is to make the watch bigger than the 32mm-36mm original. Sometimes, there are so many changes you don’t really end up with anything close to the original. The on-arm experience of the reissue can be completely different from the original.
This is what can drive vintage collectors crazy; corrupting the idea of the original. But, then would these collectors be happy with a new watch that was the same size and type of movement and build as the original? Maybe not? Anyway, that is something rarely seen – where the reissue is just like the original.
I enjoy vintage watches as well as upgraded reissues, but they are different experiences. Most watch enthusiasts don’t want the hassle of finding, repairing and maintaining a less robust original. Vintage watches can be fascinating. The wear, and patina can take you back in time. You also have to consider the original build quality. For example, a 1960 Patek versus a 1960 Timex means a difference in what you have to work with when considering repair, use and longevity. A repaired 1960 Timex is still a 1960 Timex.
Another major difference between old and new Hacks is the switch to an automatic movement from a hand-wound one. It is a whole different relationship you have with the watch if you wear it on a daily basis. You have to interact with a hand-wound watch more. Interestingly both the old 10BNCH movement and the new Miyota 8200 have about the same power reserve of 41 hrs. but I haven’t tested either, really.
The new Hacks were an interesting concept. I suppose they look more like a W-3818A dial than a A17A which I have (shown in lead image). They have the older cathedral-style hands of the W-3818A, too. With no date window, the new Hacks have a simple, open, field-style layout. I prefer the A17A dial with the 5 min. intervals around the outside of the hour numbers. The extra circle of numbers does crowd the dial by forcing everything inward, but also adds interest.
The new watch is bigger in all dimensions than the tiny A17A, so it is a different wearing experience. One thing that looks the same is the size of the crown! The case and lugs of the new Hacks closely follow the shape of the original, just bigger. The original has drilled lugs where the new one does not. Too bad because that would really have helped maintain the utilitarian ethos. I suppose many people prefer the cleaner look?
In the image below you can see the basic shape of the case and lugs is similar, just bigger in the newer watch. You can also see a big difference in the crystal shapes.
With the new Hacks, Bulova did not go for full tool watch specs, but gave us a blend of history, style, and entry level pricing. It has mineral glass, 50m WR, lume that fades quickly and uses a Miyota 8200; not spec heavy. This may be why the new hack is not for the hard core tool watch crowd or the hardcore military crowd, or vintage crowd. It is a compromise to deliver a modern, accessible homage to the original.
Leather Straps
I can’t let this post go without touching specifically on the Bulova straps on these new Hacks. They are like nothing I have seen before. I remember years ago seeing the green leather on the 98A255, thinking this is the nicest NATO style strap I have seen. The textured leather, the unique buckle and keeper/guides with a finish matching the case really become part of the watch. At the same time they are not a normal 18mm NATO strap. They are a hybrid NATO and two-piece that eliminates one of the layers under the watch, allowing it to sit a little flatter. Instead of the top layer of the strap passing over the spring bars and under the case, it is cut out so the two ends attach to lugs with spring bars like a normal two-piece strap. So, you can’t slide the watch along the strap.
To me what these straps do is further emphasize the move of the new Hacks from the tool watch realm into more of a fashion watch realm. That’s not a bad thing, but just shows how a few things can turn a watch from a tool watch or mil-spec watch into a style watch, or “every day” watch. If this watch has 100m WR, better lume, sapphire, drilled lugs and a normal NATO, its in a different watch category. It also costs more.
1958 A17A
I’m not a vintage Bulova expert or am I trying to necessarily do a technical review of any of these watches. I’m trying to discuss what they might mean to us as enthusiasts of military-related watches. My A171A was an online estate purchase. A gamble. I have no history or provenance of the watch. I guess I’m saying I didn’t look at it like a collector of vintage Bulovas or military watches. I just needed to experience the origins of the reissues and consider the history of watches and how we ended up where we are with military-related watches now.
I have gone through this drill before with vintage watches. I stumble upon an interesting old watches online or in person and can’t resist a rescue. I am also working on a post about 1960s skin divers where the same scenario plays itself out. I don’t want to be a vintage watch collector because of all the hassles, costs and decorum of maintaining original specs, patinas and parts, etc. I myself can abide a Frankenwatch. I don’t consider resale (much). I just want to experience some original historic pieces. I like old things.
My go-to comparison is the 1968 Triumph Spitfire I had for 14 years in the ’80s and ’90s, without ever finishing a complete restoration. Searching for spares was full time job. I see the motivation now to get a new Mazda convertible! Its just that an original vintage and a reissue are two different but similar experiences. The world moves on.
Amazingly, the little A17A I got keeps pretty good time without having done a thing to it yet except cleaning up the outside a bit. I’m sure the 10BNCH movement needs a good servicing/cleaning and the mainspring seems to be releasing under tension? So, now its just a matter of determining when I want to take it to “my guy” for repair.
There are many 3818A/A17 Bulovas out there. They have been around for a long time so there are lots of potential combinations of movement, dial, hands, case, or case back from different years that could be floating around. Watches break and get repaired and spare parts move around. Got to ’em running!
Even the movements can have a variety of replacement parts. Like I mentioned, I am no expert or watchmaker. I am not looking to collect original unchanged watches necessarily but its nice to know what you have and for it to be made up of a reasonable assemblage of period correct parts. For example, in most watch brands/models there are always tweeners that have mixed components from earlier and later versions.
32mm sounds terribly small, but this watch looks bigger on my wrist. Part of the reason is the very domed crystal and part is the longish lungs and large crown. Lug gap is 16mm and overall length of watch is just 40mm. The Hacks are 47mm which is pretty long for a 38mm watch.
I’m calling my A17 a 1958 based on the movent date code. Dial and hands look like an A17A rather than a W-3818A. I have seen examples on line where dials/hands and movements were interchanged at various times. As for case I have a dilemma. Mine came in a French Boimondau case, not a Star case, but I have both. I don’t know how to date the cases. I don’t know the history of the watch or why it has this case.
There could be various reasons for this dial and movement to be in this case. It could be a post-Korean war refit to an issued watch or it could be a watch built from spares after the war.
When you wear a 32mm watch it is usually light weight and out of the way. You will be less prone to bashing it into things. It will probably not impede you buttoned sleeve. Isn’t it baffling how many shirts(or shackets)–even with two button sleeves are so tight on the wrist? Don’t clothing designers consider wrist watches? I have slim wrists and many shirts are tight even without a watch!
I have been tempted to get something like a 32mm Praesidus A-11 but balked at the price and sometimes trouble finding the exact model I want. But, there again is the aforementioned quandary; cost of new versus cost of vintage. By the time I get a vintage watch and pay for overhaul, the cost starts looking even. Then the new watch will be more durable and carefree.
Wrap this up
Vintage, milspec, modern tool, modern toolish, or modern fashion, I just like the look and feel of military related watches. There are many reasons to get a watch and we are complex beings. I’ve become more supportive of the idea of just enjoying a watch for what it is or something about it you like without regard to its monetary status. If it makes you feel good, wear it.
Even though 38mm seems to be the golden mean for me, I am glad to drop down to 32mm or even smaller. I have many sub-38 watches including a ’40s-’50s(not sure) DeFrece with a 29mm case that I just love.
I would like to see some modern reissues doing a Parkerized case! I love that dull grey look that almost seems to be raw titanium. Lots of brands do a blasted finish or PVD/DLC to look similar. I have a Praesidus Jungle with a blasted finish I like, but its not the same. I guess people just want smooth and shiny?
I’ll be happy with just one well-running vintage A17A (I think!) for that vintage feel. Mostly I will rely on modern interpretations. Two other Bulova Hack versions have caught my eye, too. The blue dial/coin edge bezel 96A282 which leans toward the A-11 look, and the 96A259 with all white markings are always candidates. Though Bulova should have done a A17A-like dial/hand set on the 96A259. Each one has unique compelling details.
While on the subject of the A17A, I have to mention my Vaer 36mm Korean War inspired C3, the older Ameriquartz version, before it was replaced with a solar version. Though not a Bulova, it is a good modern interpretation of the A17A dial in a slim, 36mm case with sapphire and 100m WR. It looks more like a vintage Bulova A17A while the the new Bulovas have a W-3818A dial.
Where ever your tastes lie on the sliding scale of tool to fashion you can get a lot of enjoyment from the new Hack. You get a taste of military history and everyday auto wear in a small-ish package. But you might want to leave it at home if you go too far afield.
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