40mm Expedition Sierra and Mk1 Chronos

Interesting Sierra and MK1 Chronos with Color

I was just about to write a post on straps when I stumbled onto some new Timex offerings. It got me stirred up, so I’m switching course temporarily. This is how I always find out about new Timex watches; by accident. I got an email from Timex about new Deepwater GMTs, which I have no interest in. I got onto the site, then I decided to click on “New Arrivals”. Amongst the lineup I saw an interesting dial and clicked. It turned out to be a 40mm Expedition Sierra quartz. Then down the line I saw new MK1 Chronos in new colors.

I don’t currently have one of these on-hand so I am a little uncomfortable for this to be a review in the full sense of having used one of these watches. This is based on my experiences with related watches. Its also about the feeling I get when I look at images of these watches. All images from Timex.

40mm Expedition Sierra

Here’s the thing; Timex spits out so many designs they come and go before you notice. Also things change in the market. You have historic references for any brand, things you got used to, then they change and you have to reassess your position on the brand or line of watches. I’ve been struggling with then new Mk1s because I got seriously into watches via the pre-covid Archive era MK1s, and the new ones are not the same. Neither are the Expedition lines.

Ten years ago, there was the boutique level Archive watches– Allied, MK1, Waterbury, Navi, etc., then the lower tiered Expedition Scout, Weekender, Easy Reader, Camper, digitals, etc. This is over simplifying things, of course, because Timex has so many lines that overlap and so many new things being released, they don’t really care about uniformity of lines. What happened was the Allied and Mk1 lines went away and the Expedition lines grew and improved.

When I saw this new Sierra 3-hand quartz I realized the things I wanted for the MK1 and Allied were appearing in the Expedition line and have been for years. There have been some recent Expedition models that have military field watch characteristics. The Expeditions have been going upscale in specs to become real tool watches and the Mk1s have been going more Waterbury-like and losing the military character. Really, the old MK1s were a fashion line. I loved them and still do. They have become more serious and staid.

As I looked at the camo-like dial, the stencil numbers, and the triangle hour markers on the TW2Y89500 40mm Sierra and I wanted it to be a MK1! No, there it was; the Name Expedition and the mountain logo. Darn it! I’ve had a prejudice towards things Expedition for many years because I thought they were cheaper, less worthy watches. Not anymore. They have become formidable tool watches of good value. This model is at the lower end of the food chain while the solar, titanium and auto models are the premium options.

Let’s do some specs: 40mmx47mmx11mm, 100m WR, 20mm NATO strap. The stainless steel case looks like the new 40mm MK1s but with a snap-on case back and a blasted finish. There is lume on the hands and markers, but I don’t expect much in this price range. There is a date window at 3 o’clock, inboard of the the numeral, so it is not displacing the 3. Timex doesn’t get into details on the strap, but it looks much much more interesting in texture and tonal color change, than many of there recent partially recycled content straps. The keepers are something new, too.

It’s the character that shines most for me. Here is some fun again. It has what I was missing from the new MK1s and even Expeditions. Earlier Sierras like the TW2V22800, were sort of a safe evolution of the Scout. The dial scene/camo is a little unorthodox, but the overall effect is good. The new number style is brave and and the triangles keep the GG-W-113-3 MILSPEC vibe alive. One thing I should note is that the inner track is not a 13/24 hr track one expects, but a 5 min. interval track–more like a pilot watch. The hands take a modern twist but are refreshing. I like both the green TW2Y89500 and brown TW2Y89400 versions.

More Color for MK1

At the same time as I saw the new Sierras, I noticed the two new colors for the MK1 chronograph. I had recently given some negative copy to the MK1 chronos, pointedly noting the lack of color or variety. These have more life with leather straps an some color options including a black case finish. To me there needs to be clear distinction between the MK1 and other lines like the Waterbury or Marlin, or even Weekender chronos. I want the fun and variety of the older Mk1s again. Then again, I like to think of the Mk1s as having both military associations as well as fashion expression with some color options.

I thought the new MK1 auto, and first new MK1 chrono were a little dull while trying to be more spec’d up. These two remind me more of the old MK1 series, so that’s good. The initial new MK1 chrono in brushed stainless and black dial is classic, I suppose, but came across as dull. These two help expand the line and offer the compare/contrast interest to that first effort. They seem more at home on leather and would even look good on that new Sierra NATO strap.

The brushed case with green dial TW2Y71200 is on a black leather 2-piece with green stitching. It feels more like a MK1, but still could be a Waterbury or Marlin by overall feel. The cream lume and flat finish hands work for me here. The hands could be the same finish as the first MK1 chron that had white lume? The bigger impact comes from the black and blue TW2Y71300. This is even better with the black case and charcoal sub dials on a dark blue background. The hands are a lighter grey-blue. It also come an a black leather but with blue stitching.

Final Thoughts

I guess what inspired this post is the design dissonance I am getting between the Expedition and MK1 development. I wanted to see the MK1s get more tool-like while keeping the fun military vibe. What happened was the Expeditions got more tool-like, stole some of the military clues from the MK1s, but still tried to be modern and more outdoorsy than military, if that makes sense? An example is how the Expeditions are getting the triangle markers while the MK1s are not.

Another counter-intuitive point is the stencil numbers of the Sierra are used to evoke military associations when historically military watches did not use stencil numbers. I like stencil numbers, but also like the historic Din-style numbers of the original MK1s. The Sierra also sticks to the Expedition North/Expedition style hand set to retain the modern outdoors theme, then take a MK1 shape and hour markers? The expedition line, for a few years now, has been a real shotgun spray as far as styles go-very hard to make sense what is going on. It also makes me think again about the question: what is a field watch?

I feel a slight tug to get one of these new Sierras, but, at the same time am finding them a little odd. Its the contradictions described above; is it military or not? Is it like a MK1 or an Expedition? Does the dial background look like a landscape or a camo pattern, or both? Is it the new Scout? I don’t know if the mainstream public is going to like those stencil numbers? An earlier Scout evolution, the TW4B30100, had a more conservative stencil style. The Sierra seems to be replacing the Scout, moving on.

These new colors for the MK1 Chrono are a bridge the old MK1 with the new MK1 style. As you may know, I am not really a chronograph fan even though I have many older MK1 and Allied chronos. I just don’t need the functions of a chrono regularly. I was not enticed to get the new MK1 chrono when first released. These two draw me closer. I prefer a 3-three hand watch. My hope is to see the MK1 line add some 40mm or 38mm 3-hand quartz or solar models while continuing the color options, screw-on case back and 100m WR. I’m not sure where I stand on the lume vs back light for low light or night? It would be interesting to see the costs involved for different types of illumination?

I don’t really expect to get any of the above watches, but I am happy to see some more life in the lines. I’m starting to feel the weight of having too many watches and am getting more careful about adding any that don’t really excite me.