Here We Go Again
Just as I’m getting into ’90s Fossil and bemoaning the their current offering, the long-time watch giant, recovering from bankruptcy, makes a bold move; They go upscale with Signature CS-1.
Immediately I thought of Timex Atelier. To bolster their reputation as a real watch brand, they have drawn on “made in Switzerland” and jumped from $250 watches to $750 watches. Spurred on by social media powered watch enthusiasm and searching for relevancy in a crowded market, Fossil has decided to be like everybody else.
To be taken seriously by “enthusiasts” you have to have automatics for sure, a tie to Swiss manufacturing, mid-century retro styling,and chronographs and be at least $500, but better yet, more towards $1000 in price. Next up will be a GMT and an integrated bracelet version with stone dial. You have to be like everyone else, but somehow, different enough to stand out.
My first question is, “What about the rest of the current lines?” What is going to be the range of price points in the new triple-diamond Fossil? Is this the first step that industry consultants suggested to bring Fossil back? To not be what you have been? I hope it is just to grab some attention, some credibility, while they remake their $150-350 range lines. Is Signature going to be the micro brand division of Fossil?
I’m assuming the people that thought of this upscale move all have jobs, places to live, money for groceries, and cars, gas, or maybe an EV, or transit passes, medical insurance and can afford childcare, oh and an extra $800 for a Swiss watch? They don’t see a problem with a $800 Fossil? They are trying to attract enthusiasts who were not Fossil customers prior to Signature.
My second question is, “Did regular Fossil customers ask for a $800 watch?” After 40 years (well, 30– the last ten have not been good) of interesting entry level, fashion forward, analog quartz watches, do normal Fossil shoppers want to be enthusiasts? Who asked for this? It seems to me if your low-end watches are not selling well, you might want to make your low-end watches better and more appealing instead of moving into a highly competitive area where you have no presence.
The CS-1 Watches
I really like the new Signature watches, at first glance. They have a nice vintage flair, but, are at the same time safe designs. If I was going to put $700 down for one today it would be the three-hand date auto 38mm with the champagne dial and brown leather. I don’t get too excited about chronos these days, but I do think the CS-1 quartz 42mm chronos look great. But, again there is really nothing much to separate these CS-1 watches from a lot of other watches out there in this price range.
I like the two-tone, the ’30s style with pretty muscular case/bezel. It is a clean design that still has nice details like the sector dial layout with radial grooves under spear-shaped hour markers. The classic dauphine hands and angled crown make sure you know you are in retro territory. Comes in three colors, one on bracelet , two on leather.
The chronograph features a pointer date then day and month windows below the 12. Same design features as the 38mm auto. Comes in four color varieties, two on straps, two on bracelets. My first impression is that the new CS-1s are right in the ballpark with a lot of watches of this type at this price with well done designs and details.
Closing Thoughts
Nice watches, sure. But, why? Would I get one, myself? Why? Are they different enough to make me switch to Fossil? If I am a Fossil buyer already, would I jump up? The 38mm autos have a nice retro look a solid movement and, finally, a proper size at 38mm. Fossil does not have any current lines that look like this. The closest thing ins a $170 42mm Everett which is pretty awkward looking. The Pointer date on the Chrono is probably not common in this type at this price range. The month complication also different, but not a common need by most. If I look at the chronographs, am I going to compare specs/value/look with other chronos out there and find Fossil is giving me much more for the money? No, probably not. Can I get a Tissot, a Bulova, a Vaer, a Seiko for less? Fossil has a few other older chrono lines at about $250. Only their Sport Tourer interests me as the other lines are pretty awful. I can look over at Timex for a retro-style $300 chrono in Marlin or Waterbury, or even MK1 and find much more interesting watches. Dan Henry or Orient are two others I can think of that are interesting at $300 the range.
I would rather see Fossil compete in the $250-350 range with the likes of Timex than in the $800 market. If, like Timex Atelier, this is Fossil trying to show they can make real watches for enthusiasts at $800, that is OK, but, are they going to make their less expensive watches more competitive, too? Is this just an attention-getter with limited sales projected while they work on their $200 watches or are they moving to a different, smaller market segment? The design inspiration here is genuine and well executed. The attention to detail is the strong point of these watches. I’m sure the designers looked at the competition and felt they had something unique to add to the field. I hope it works. I am not motivated to get one of these CS-1s. This is not what I want to spend $700 on but I’m glad Fossil is getting back in the fight.
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