Marine Star Glory Days Part 2

Elaborate designs head to YK2

1997 and 1998 seems to have been a prolific period for the Marine Star designers? My collection seems to be heavy with models from those two years and I’m not sure why that is? As I was discussing in Part 1, there was a huge variety of designs and manufacturing differences within the Marine Star collection in the 1990s. Some designs seemed similar with lots of two-tone decoration while others were more classic and restrained. Also, build quality varied among designs. Without any catalogs or marketing information to go on, its hard to see a clear progression of designs. The group designing the Marine Stars seems to be riffing on mixing and matching various design elements from different watches and years and making new assemblages. Over the years, certain design elements come in then out of the line, only to return again.

I need to research more, but there may have been different production locations or sources of components as the 90s progressed. At this point I still think Marine Stars were coming from Hong Kong and Stelux was providing components such as bracelets and cases maybe?

Tag Heuer (TH) watches were still hot, but heading towards new ground with Link and Kirium that were not warmly received by most TH fans. Still, the Marine Stars were derivative of these TH designs and other brand’s popular looks. 1997 and 1998 continued to offer a lot of different looks including some plain brushed/polished silver with blue dials and no gold trim! I do like blue dials and have tried to find more Marine Stars with blue dials, but the white ones seem to be more available.

I’ll start off with this little 36mm beauty with a guilloche-like dial. Its a 98B81 from 1997. The bezel that is not easy to grip, has a nice design, similar, but not quite like any other Marine Star I have. It has gold plated boxes at the 10 min. positions, and a gold textured track between them. There really is no teeth on the edge. The polished case has flatter sides and three projection/double-lobed lugs. The crown is coated in gold. The crown guards are squarish and don’t flow into the case like the more classic diver-style cases of most Marine Stars in this era. With a more conventional dial layout and case shape, this watch is more on the dress watch side than the diver side. Except for the bezel there’s not much diver to it? The bracelet look borrows from the Tag Heuer S/el while the bezel is a mix of Series 2000 Supers and Breitling?

Like most of these 90s Marine Stars, this has a unique bracelet link. This one is a rounded H shape motif. This brings up an important point with these watches; because of how the bracelets fit the odd case/lug designs, you just can’t put any bracelet on these watches and you can’t mix and match bracelets among them. They are all different. If you need a repair, or a link, you’ll have to find another exact model for parts. This one could use a new mineral crystal, too. It has taken a pretty substantial hit at the 6 o’clock edge that is a bit distracting.

This chronograph I got for a pretty good price, but it has substantial wear. It could use some spot polishing. Its an interesting 38mm x 47mm chrono with white, blue and gold and fits more in the classic design pool. What first attracted me to it was there resemblance it had to a 2001 Marine Star I already had though black dial it uses the same case and bracelet? I like the bezel which has a TH Series 2000 feel. This watch, like the 2001 version came in a 3-hand and a chronograph I believe. There is probably also a smaller women’s version. Speaking of women’s versions, I get the feeling most Marine Stars in this era had a smaller size marketed for women like Tag Heuer had three sizes. The men’s are usually in 36-38mm while the women’s are in the 28mm range. It gets tricky online sometimes trying to tell how big a watch in a listing is when many do not give size! Another problem is that these older smaller men’s Marine Stars are sometimes listed as women’s or unisex because the seller does not know.

The 98B82 uses a Miyota 0S60 quartz movement. The top sub dial is the chron. minute counter, the bottom a 1/20th sec, and the 9’oclock sub dial is a chron. hour. I think its a good basic chronograph movent that has been used on many watches. I don’t know how readily available a movement would be, but its a much simpler interface and probably more reliable than the 3S31 I mentioned in Part 1 of my Marine Star series. This might be the only one I have with Roman numerals?

Over all its a great looking watch, to me. But legibility is not the best with this watch. The metallic blue sunburst sub dials have very small white numbers that are hard to see. The gold sub dial hands can disappear at certain angles. On top of that the background dial is textured and a silvery-white. The thin minute and hour hands appear to be blue with a thin strip of lume; they sort of disappear when crossing the sub dials…Lastly there are considerable scratches on the crystal. It all makes for a lot of visual distraction. But, I love the size for a chrono! This might be my only 38mm chrono?

The case and bracelet are very generic, lacking details. Worst of all is the bezel. It doesn’t rotate! Even though these are not real dive/tool watches, when a bezel appears to rotate with cool buzz saw teeth, it should rotate! I love to play with rotating bezels even when I’m not timing things. Then there’s the bezel insert; its similar to ones on my numerous Timex 38mm Ocean and Harbor models. Its aluminum with printing on it I think. It is nicked up quite a bit. I saw some of this before I bought it, but overlooked it. Here at Lowly Caliber, I thrive on low-end timepieces and deals, but this is just too junky for me. This brings up an important point when collecting cheap watches. Condition is more important than on a higher quality watch because wear and tear (rubbed off gold coating) becomes evident sooner and cannot really be fixed. Enough said.

Now for one of the more unique Marine Stars in my collection. The 1997 Solar powered Titanium 98G03. It also is the lead image(above) for this post. I couldn’t resist this one. I did see later the alarm chronograph version of this, too, but, as I hesitated to spend the money it was snapped up by another buyer. Then again, I don’t really want those alarm/chron. features.

This watch has take on a new, more modern styling with the case shape, but still retains some TH looks. It still has the 90s two-tone bling, but mixes it with the titanium grey. Could this be a Japan made MS? The movement is Japanese, probably Citizen. The bracelet states “Titanium Japan” the case back states “Titanium case”. It is in excellent condition; barely worn?

One interesting thing about this watch is there is no type anywhere stating its solar power?! It does say “Bulova quartz” on back, but any person who didn’t know much about the watch who picked it up, would not know why it isn’t running? I have seen images of other similar ones that plainly state solar on dial? And I have seen another style, 98G00, that is the same titanium and gold with a dial like a 1996 98B78. Returning to the styling of this, it looks a lot like a 1992 TH Super 2000 chronograph in the case and bezel. Its so much lighter than the stainless Marine Stars, but like other brands that tried titanium at the time, it doesn’t seem to have been that popular? You barely notice it on the wrist. My guess is people want the feel of a substantial steel watch? Again, its quirky and a acquired taste type of watch, but I really like it.

Again from 1997 we have the 98G10 that keeps to the theme. At 37mm x 44mm, barely 9mm thick, it has the vintage sizing for anyone with a smaller wrist but packs a lot of 90s flair. By now, you know I’m drawn to these two-tone, S/el wannabes. I can’t get enough, and there seems to be a new iteration around every corner. Again, I would love to know how the people at Bulova, in the mid to late 90s decided on all these riffs in this style? This one simplifies things a bit with a flat-ish bezel with raised markings just coated in gold and the bracelet gold only on the center section of the 3-prong links. The bracelet is narrower, too; 16.5mm approx.

I imagine there is some cost cutting decisions here. At first glance it kind of looks cheap, but then it takes on a purposeful look? This bezel casting has lots of texture, but is not two-tone, but coated all over in gold. Its a unique bezel among these Marine Stars. Notice the tab projections around the outside, instead of teeth. It resembles some ’93-’94 Breitling or ’93 Seamaster bezels rather than Tag Heuer 3000. The case is classic MS diver, with slightly flatter sides and the crown is domed.

This model is a good time to approach the elephant in the room if I may? Vintage sizing aside, the Tag Heuer S/el and these Bulova Marine Stars, especially in two-tone, are assigned a feminine leaning I think? I can detect a hesitancy among some men for this style of watch as not being sporty or manly enough. Today, I could see lots of women liking this size watch, but many women may even consider this too girly. Back in the 90s, both Bulova and Tag Heuer made lots of 28-30mm “women’s” watches to match the bigger 37-38mm “men’s”. Many of the women’s and some of the men’s had stones set in various places for a more dressy look. I don’t like stones of any kind on a watch, but that’s just me, at this point. I think the two-tone look, to any degree, connotes a more luxury or dressy look. But at the same time, if you look at 90s Tag Heuer catalogs, for example, the use of gold can be as sporty as it is dressy. I like the audacious and so slightly rebellious direction of these designs.

1998 was a good year

Now we’re talkin’. Back to the S/el styling the epitomizes the Marine Stars of the 90s. Coming in at 37mm x 43mm with thick curvy brushed stainless and gold protrusions. We get the three pronged lugs and the y-shaped links in two-tone. This is a good one! The dressy diver in all its glory. Its showing a little wear but is still in great shape and slots right in there with the ’95 98B57 shown in Part 1.

This one has all the details that I like in these watches; the unidirectional S/el type bezel with gold teeth, all the round corners and curves, classic TH shaped case in brushed stainless contrasting the gold protrusions, the dive-style cream dial with wavy embossing. Look at the the gold treatment on the round date window! The hand set is not the Mercedes, but continues the use of a thinner style, dress watch like handset. It has the diver-style hour markers, and a minute track around the outside with tiny Arabic numbers at the five minute intervals.

Now to one of the favorites in my collection from 1998:

I thought I had more Marine Stars from 1998, but as I take stock, it seems more are from ’97? This blue and silver 96B07 is from 1997-98 and is one I always like to wear. It is again unique because it has the S/el type curves, projections, round corners and y-links, but no gold! You get the Cpt.Nemo styling but with a less flashy appearance. Its more sporty/casual. The bulbous shapes seem as more of a texture than decorations when they are not gold. The blue dial is not common in these 90s Marine Stars and its great. I also like the bullet shaped hour markers.

Also uncommon among my MS collection is that I have three examples of this watch. Two made in ’97, the other ’98. I have seen one of these date stamped 1999 also. Everything looks the same, but the case backs are of different designs. The dials can vary slightly, too. Some smoother and more shiny? Since I have no catalogs to reference, I use this kind of information to build history and determine how many, how long, how popular a style was. Since I had so many issues with my first one, I got others, just in case.

Sized at 36mm x 44.5mm it is easy to wear for me and still feels substantial with its mostly 18mm stainless bracelet. The first link that integrates into the familiar 3-lug case is 20mm. Looking at the bezel and case finish it appears to be blasted rather than brushed or polished. The case backs do state “stainless steel case”. It could be a stainless case that has been coated? The bracelet is polished stainless with what appear to be brushed or blasted center link sections.

This is a good time to talk again about the unique bracelets of these Marine Stars, as a group. These watches are not easy to come by in decent shape, and a spare bracelet almost impossible to find. the ’98 was the first one I bought, at a great price, but it had a broken clasp! So, I got a new inexpensive after market 18mm stainless bracelet with 3-section, oyster-style links and filed away on it’s two links connecting the clasp until I could fit the two Bulova curved links into it. Voilà! My point is that because of the way these crazy bracelets integrate into the equally odd case/lugs, you just can’t throw any bracelet on these watches. You will have to find another and condemn it to a parts watch. I may have to do that if I find I cannot live with my modification.

It gets better. I later came across a white version of this watch, 98B99, which is great because I like this style so much. The bracelet on the white was a little worse for wear, but interestingly has some differences to my blue versions. There is some gold outlines on the dial elements and gold coating on the center round projection of the bracelet links. However, it appears most of this sadly, has worn off. Another difference is the bracelet clasp. My white 98B99 has a jewellery type clasp which is less secure.

Before I move on I want to talk about the simpler design of these two. I mentioned above that I like it. The more I look at it, the more I try to figure out what it is that clicks for me? The overall size and shape, color dial elements are great. The bracelet is unique, but not the thing that stands out. Its the combination of bezel and case shapes that give it a wavy almost starfish feel. The soft round projections of the bezel over the soft tabs on the sides added to the rounded lugs and crown guards give the whole thing a scalloped shape. It looks like a sea creature sitting low and wide on the bottom under water. I’m at a loss for references for some of these designs? S/el of course, but at times this one hints at a Seamaster or Aquaracer scalloped/tabbed bezel?

The bezel design is a mix of TH Series 4000 and 6000? Its sort of flat? Sort of a scalloped shape, it is not the easiest to grip, but has six gold plated protrusions between the 10 min Arabic number intervals that you can get a finger nail on to push. it has not It uses polished and blasted finishes. It has a larger than normal lume dot in a gold diamond shape at the 12/0 location. The numbers al also gold treated. Over time, with use, I can see that the gold would wear off on the bezel because those elements are what deliver the grip for turning.

Why, again, I keep asking did Bulova decide to to so many similar but different iterations of this type of design? That says to me these are more for style than for a function or a technology or specification. Dressy, stylish and look like a lot of divers you may have seen. Its fine with me since I can’t get enough!

This one from 1998 takes a turn more towards a more everyday sport watch with integrated bracelet. No gold here. Just a white dial with a grid background and brushed stainless. Again, more of the same 37mm Marine Star feel, but this is has its own look. It reminds me of the 98B99 above, but without gold. So, its easier to wear and less flashy.

It has an over all rounder feel to it and a narrow rotating bezel. I like the slash zeros on the numbers. The 19mm wide three-section links sort of have a Y shape with an arrow motif running done the center. This arrow head/chevron motif shows up throughout the watch; on the hour markers, the little projections on the bezel, and the bracelet. Its looks a lot like many of the round steel sports watch reissues with integrated bracelets that are so popular now in 2023-24.

When I first saw it, I was not interested because it seemed a little boring and not the MS look I was used to. But, I kept going back to it because it was different, and it grew on me. Again, the sizing is 37mmx42mm and only 9mm thick. White again! Why was white so popular in the 90s? I wonder if this one came in blue, too?

1999

This is another update since the original posting. I just like to type 1999. The following model 98G62 from this year is one I have been watching for a long time. It was that silver pie pan dial that had first caught my eye, then other things, like the bezel in certain shots really got me interested. I finally got one that I thought was a balance between price and condition. Before I even got the first one, I stumbled on to another one in even better shape! So, now I have two. Not something I normally don’t do unless I am trying to make one decent example from a couple of basket cases…

What a mixture of Capt. Nemo submarine and sea monster. The bezel looks like an armored aperture with flat sloping brushed surface, and gold claws over notched areas. Then you have that bracelet that looks like the back or tail of an alligator the way little fins turn up at the edges. Gold decoration in minimized. The gold on the bezel mimics the spine on the bracelet. Its a mix of a range of MS styling from mid 90s to early 2000s. Love it. There was a smaller women’s version that was just like it. I like the 36mm case size, but I could see this design bumped up to 40-41mm in titanium, without the gold, toned-down in greys and black, a beefier crown and guard, on a rubber strap as a cool modern tool watch. I just love that sloping brushed bezel with notches.

Mystery Watch

This post needs to end, so I will finish it with a mysterious Marine Star that I stumbled across. I don’t know what year it was made because no date code is stamped on case back like all the others I own. It also is without the normal model number in tiny type below the 6? Instead is says “Swiss Parts”! Other special things about it are that it has a Swiss movement, an ETA 955.114, and a screw-in crown with 200m WR. It also seems to have a sapphire crystal. I know that in the 90s Bulova did return to some production in Switzerland, so this could be one of those using a different date/model number codes.

I haven’t opened it up at this point because it is running fine with new battery. That might reveal a Hong Kong stamp, or not? Probably not a model number? It is just presents so many differences from the rest of mine I wonder if it was for an Asian or European market? Even sizing is a bit off? It is 35.5mm case or 39mm with elongated, rounded crown. So it is smaller than the 37-38mm of most, but not as small as women’s sizing of the times?

All the styling elements and proportions are consistent with the men’s Marine Stars of this look in the mid 90s. The bracelet is TH S/el, while the bezel is a mix of TH Series 4000/Super 2000 and Breitling? Its got the two-tone with the silver being dulled or blasted for a more grey look contrasting the shiny gold.

Because it carries the Bulova tuning fork logo instead of the B, it makes me wonder if it is later, maybe from the early 2000s? The dial color is a deep royal and mirror-like. The hour markers are mix of bullets and big triangles, with more gold than usual. The minute/second track out side the hour markers is printed in gold and is tiny; hard to see.

While the overall build quality seems good, to go with its upgraded specs, there is some black fill missing for the numbers and marks on the bezel, but I don’t think it is from wear? It doesn’t seem to have been worn much. Could it be a sample or prototype? Regardless, it is another good example of the hard to describe design theme I am presenting in these Marine Stars.

Next up in Part 3, I will move into the 2000s and the end of the Golden Years for me and the Marine Stars started to change and just before Citizen acquires Bulova.