The Interesting Finds Keep Coming
Here we go again. Since my last nerdy post on Eddie Bauer watches a while back, Part 2, more have found their way to me. I am trying to reduce the rate of of watch purchases and number of watches coming in. But as an afflicted collector, there is always a justification to add another something. If you shop, you will find.
As I have written in the past, I often come across a cool watch while searching for something else. I find them by accident! It seems when I am looking for a specific old watch, I can never find it, but instead I find something I never knew about. With all the cookies and algorithms being used by sites, the watches find me rather than the other way around.
By now, if you have read any of my posts, you will know I have had a lot of fun with the crazy variety of Eddie Bauer watches that were available over decades. I collect Eddie Bauer watches. I tried to establish that there really is no common factor shared by these varied watches other than that they were mostly quartz and affordable for the masses when new. During the last quarter of the 20th century, fashion watch designers were free to explore a greater variety of looks. They could concentrate on the exterior of the watch because the movement was an inexpensive but efficient and reliable, low-maintenance quartz. The movement did not matter.
These watches were bought for the style outside, not the craftsmanship and technology inside. Function was important as well regarding various features of different watches, but they all seemed to have been good values at the time? I just love all the cool designs! I have discovered, though, that quality of build varies as much as the styling. I have seen some pretty bad ones made by say, M.Z. Berger. in Hong Kong, who also made really marginal stuff under the Gruen name. One example I can share was a three-hand quartz, with date, no subdials, that had two moving pushers on the case that did not connect to anything! No function. That must have been late 90s, early 2000s when Spiegel was going under and was forced to use whatever parts it had!
Like all my other ones, I have not figured out how to identify year made from any outside markings and lack of catalog reference. From condition and general style, and experience from looking at so many cheap quartz watches, I feel most are from 90s and early 2000s. I’m especially irritated by the ones I think are earlier, because some are 80s maybe? The ones in this post have almost exclusively Japan moments, so that doesn’t narrow it down much. Some are retro designs, so that is misleading too.
Classic dressy styles
I’ll get started with these two retro style dress watches. They are similar is size and construction, but each have unique materials and features. I think these are so cool because nobody makes quartz watches like this anymore! They have the usual Eddie Bauer style names on the back which can sometimes be odd. Some are names of places while others are like nomenclature parts descriptions? Where the inspiration for these designs come from I don’t know, but they seem to recall old mechanical watches while being from the height of the cheap quartz boom. They were made in the early-mid 90s, but look older.
The Cascade has a 34mm case and is 43mm Lug-to-Lug. It appears to be a silver or nickle case body with a brass bezel. It has a small domed crown. Is it nickle plated? The case back only states that the case back itself is stainless steel. It looked very tarnished when I got it, not like a coating, so I spent a bit of time cleaning and polishing it down to a more presentable finish. It seems more of a tarnish than a plating? The claw lugs step up from the mid case and have a nice downward curl to them with knob ends. The brass bezel with fluted or coined edge sit inside the raised lugs.
The glossy dial is just great with its Roman Numerals printed on what looks like white enamel. There is a date window at 6 o’clock. The hand set is a very conservative matte black baton style. The minute hand extends past the Roman numbers, almost to the classic railroad track on the outer limit of the dial that is marked with Arabic numbers at each 5min. mark.
The second of this pair has a bit bigger case of 35.5mm, but length of lug tips is smaller at 42mm. The Tort Bezel name is strange to me since the tortoise part is not the bezel? Nevertheless, it is a fun watch. Its leg-lugs are even more prominent than those on the Cascade and seem to project right from the dial.
The Tort or tortoise is again, an unusual watch with a tortoise material ring that forms the middle case. I’m assuming it is plastic, but it revives the feeling of old luxury watches and jewelry with tortoise shell parts. The top bezel and aggressive claw lug casting goes over the tortoise. The case back again, is stainless. The finish on the lugs and bezel is a sort of aged gunmetal coating? Its hard to tell what it looked like when new because of wear and dirt and tarnishing. This finish looks like more an actual coating than the previous watch. From looking at the underside of the lugs, It looks like the original finish was darker and matte. There is a rivet or pin on each lug securing it to the plastic ring. It, again, has the small domed crown.
The tort has a small seconds dial above the 6’oclock position. The hand set is similar baton shaped matte black similar to Cascade’s, but shorter. The white of the dial is shiny, but not quite as white or glossy as the Cascade. It has a simpler layout of Roman numbers in calligraphy style. There is no perimeter outline or track, or Arabic numbers.
Both of my example are on the original brown leather 2-piece straps. They have the same arched pin buckles that many Eddie Bauer watches of this era have. The straps carry the Eddie Bauer logo and show Hong Kong as place of manufacture. Even though the straps are well worn with strap keeper loops almost coming apart, I don’t want to change them out yet. I like the color and soft feel, the oldness. It works with the antique look of the watches.
Two Tone
Let’s change it up now for some definite 90s quartz style. These two each have what you might say is quirky styling? Also again are the varied names. These two are called Westport and Sleek Classic 3-Eye. Not a lot in common, but they both have the white dial, gold trim 90s feel.
This Sleek 3-eye is just crazy! It reminds me of something I have seen, but I don’t know where this design inspiration came from? Again, not what you expect from an outdoor supplier! It almost has an 80s or even 70s feel to it, though I think it is dated 2001? Sort of recalls luxury watches like Chopard, Universal Genève, Hublot or even an IWC Ingenieur that are bezel prominent. It is definitely what is having a moment now in the 2020s; the integrated bracelet sports watch. In my Part 2 of this series you see a smaller watch in this genre. There are more Eddies out there in this vein, too, but how many can I get?
The first thing you notice besides the three sub dials is the round bezel rolling over and integrating into the bracelet. The case is 40mm wide and is a whopping 55mm end to end. The ends curve down so much it doesn’t feel big on my slim wrist. Why was this quartz three-dial display so popular in the 90s? Eddie Bauer used it a lot, but usually with more diver/field looking watches. This case and bracelet feels more futuristic and seems like it would be better with a cleaner dial layout and bolder hands?
It has depth because the outer minutes track steps up the bezel and flat crystal. The gold is in the applied fine hour bars, the slim hands, and outline of sub dials. The crown is gold. A bead of gold along the side of the bezel flows down the side of each center section of the links. The bezel, case and bracelet are brushed on horizontal surfaces but polished on sides.
Its just a funky, fun watch to wear. It keeps me wondering who at Eddie Bauer was picking the designs to sell at the stores and why they sold such a wide variety of watch types.
The Westport is a whole other beast in the mode of a Tag Heuer 6000. It is dated 1995Named after the Pacific coast town in Washington state, traditionally know for salmon fishing. If you read Part 2 of this series, you saw the Gunmetal, which was a more direct copy of the 6000. This one has added a funky push button switch at 2 o’clock for the back lighting. This one is a bit bigger (40mmx45mm) than the Gunmetal (38.5mmx43mm), but is a boxier shape with shorter lug ends. Its sort of a clunky looking watch, but all-in with Tag Heuer diver clues.I really like it. It has a brushed finish unidirectional diver bezel.
The hour markers and Mercedes style hands all have gold trim, as well as the four gold spots on the stubby lugs. The black groove-padded leather band is original. It doesn’t do much for appearances since it is pretty worn out. Generally, black leather straps, to me, don’t seen to age as well?
Eddie Bauer had several watches with the Indiglo-style back light. Some with a separate switch and others crown activated. These Hong Kong made ( I think) watches have a stainless steel case back only. The case and bezel are base metal or brass cast, then plated. This one is 50m WR. So, looks like a diver, but isn’t, especially on the leather. There is a deep shiny rehaut that makes the dial seem far below the bezel top. Maybe it aids in the lighting?
If you know me, you know I like this type of watch. Its like all my Bulova Marine Stars that look like Tag Heuers, but these Eddie Bauers are even cheaper! The build quality is not up to par with the Bulovas, though. I’d like to try this on a more attractive strap? I have a second one of these, in like-new condition, on the brown strap and and it looks a lot better.
Formula 1 Style
Oh, yes. They did it, too. In the seemingly never-ending variety of Eddie Bauer watches I have discovered, this another interesting group. I was not a watch guy in the days or the original Tag Heuer Formula 1 years: 1987-96, so don’t really remember these watches. I was starting to get some watches during this time but probably would not have been interested in these? I did actually loosely follow Formula One racing during these years via car magazines. This year the Kith/Heuer collaboration Formula 1 reissues came out and they are fantastic.
I collect many kinds of watches, and over time have collected ones I would not have liked in past years, but have grown to appreciate. I must say, this type of watch is not really something I would normally pursue. Again, these found me as I searched for Eddie Bauer watches. Simultaneously, while reading up on old Tag Heuer (TH) watches over the last few years, I came to know the Formula 1 series. Even though the Kith collabs are tempting, I don’t think I will move in the Kith or vintage Formula1 areas unless I stumble onto a great deal.
These Eddie Bauers, on the other hand, are a lot easier on the wallet to take on. But they are not all created equally. There at least two or maybe three different types of these. They make look similar, but have different specs. They are sized on the smaller side, like the mid-size Tag Heuers of the time. I suspect there are larger ones out there, so these may have been marketed towards kids or women?
This black one, 35mmx42mm, is water resistant to 50m. It has a date a 3 o’clock and lume on hour dots and hands. The case and bezel are metal coated with a PVD or DLC black finish. This case is not in the shape of genuine Forumla 1 watches, as you can see. It is more along the lines of standard cheap diver style like some Gurens I have written on. The Formula 1 style strap is stiffer polymer, more plastic feeling, and says Sport on the top of each side. The buckle and pin are plastic, too. This one is ill. Its not running with a new battery, so I have to sort it out. Maybe an overhaul or new movement?
Inside the case back on this one we find Gruen and Hong Kong. So that puts it in maybe the mid-90s, probably made by M.Z. Berger who was making the cheap Gurens at this time. Its a pretty cool looking watch and definitely delivers the TH Formula 1 feel. But, the stiff plastic strap reminds you of the level of quality. I’m not sure what colors this type came in, but seem to remember a bright blue? I have also seen a third type, with a silver plated case like the yellow one and black bezel like this one?
This yellow one is a different type. Sized at 35mmx40mm, it has a differently shaped case; one that is more like a TH Formula 1 shape. It is coated in black. The unidirectional bezel is yellow plastic, and has a pretty stiff ratcheting action. The two most noticeable differences between this are the strap and water resistance. The yellow one has a screw-down crown and is rated at 200m WR, compared to only 50m for the black Sport. The other thing is the material of the strap; this is a softer rubber-like polymer with an Eddie Bauer logo. It comes off the case at 20mm, bulges out to 22mm at the logo, then finishes at 18mm. The pin buckle is stainless.
So, we’ve jumped from 50m to 200m in WR. I can only assume this one was clearly meant for use in swimming and snorkeling, and probably for adults? It also uses the black and yellow colors that were standard code for water sports at the time. There must be a 38mm version? These both have the “cut-here-lines” on the straps to size just like the Formula 1s had. For a small watch these are long straps(70mm/130mm). If I was going to wear one of these much I would be tempted to trim it down for my wrist.
This one also came in a cheesy plastic case with an infuriating detent release. The case was already cracked, and I did more damage trying to get it open! The watch seemed basically unused and needed a battery. Additionally, this watch comes with two small accessories; a compass or a thermometer! They slide onto the strap at the 18mm section.
I’ll keep looking to see if there was a larger size one of these. A black NATO with yellow stripe might be cool, but then, the strap is hard to separate form a Formula 1?Both of these are pretty much exact copies of TH Formula 1 color schemes, so they really have the same look and feel of the real thing.
Back to the Field
You could say those last two watches were outdoor watches, like one would expect from Eddie Bauer, but they were more of an idea and trend that originated from outside Eddie Bauer. That makes me think again of what I expect from an Eddie Bauer watch. Now, Eddie Bauer wanted to sell things—and they must have sold a lot of watches—because there is a crazy variety of them out there? Then it all came crashing down in 2003, and they do not sell watches now. The company itself evolved from a purely outdoor supply to a fashion clothing store, even to a home/lifestyle brand. As I have tried to show, they went beyond outdoor watches and sold all kinds of styles of watches to cater to the fashion of the times.
Now these three above are more like what I would expect to find at Eddie Bauer? I just randomly selected a Wenger double-signed one, a diver style, and another with a compass bezel.
This Hidden Bezel example was just so different, I had to have it. From 1997, I have not seen anything like this before? It has another one of the Eddie Bauer names that are not names as much as a description of components. Why the need to hide or guard the bezel? As you can see there are small compass headings and 10 degree points around the inside of the bezel. Are the guards to keep the bezel from getting bumped once you have set a direction? Maybe one reason I have not seen this before is that it is not a good idea? It makes it harder to grip the bezel! Luckily the big teeth on the edge are good to get a thumbnail hold.
Its a pretty big watch at 43mm x 49.5mm. Additionally, all the extra case bulk adds some heft. It originally was on a combination nylon/leather two-piece strap, which I kind of liked. However, it was worn out. On my smallish wrist, I could not easily get the heavy watch to feel secure. I have it temporarily on a pass-through Haveston, though I think a two-piece is the way to go. It has a screw-down crown and is rated at 100m WR.
The white dial and simple layout with block hour markers, bold pencil-tip hands, and day/date window is easy to read. There are no numbers on the dial; those are on the bezel for minutes and compass headings. Its just a cool looking, sturdy watch that could be quite useful for direction finding while hiking.
Wenger/Swiss Army
When I think about it, a Wenger/Swiss Army could be the quintessential watch for Eddie Bauer to sell? Stainless, sapphire(most older mineral), 100m WR; rugged, water proof, reliable. And they did sell them, double-signed like this little 9000.10. I don’t know how many styles or how many years were signed with Eddie Bauer, but I have seen a few. Eddie Bauer did do lots of licensing deals with many watch makers over the years, so I can imagine Wenger or others did some with only Eddied Bauer logos? I think Wenger started releasing watches in 1988. This looks mid-90s.
This little one measures 35mm x 41mm so probably had many women buyers. It does get a bit wider straight across the middle, from crown guard to case flare at 9 o’clock it goes to 37mm. Because my wrist is about 6.75 inches, I love 36-38mm watches. I don’t mind bigger watches up to about 42-43mm, but small ones like this don’t get in the way, get snagged, and also slip under and sleeves or gloves. Speaking of that, probably the one of the best things about quartz watches is that they allow for a flatter case to keep watches low and out of the way. The bracelet tapers from 19mm to 16mm and has a locking clasp. This one has collected a lot of scratches on its journeys.
I think highly of Swiss Army watches and Wenger before they were absorbed. They have probably been one of the best values in the world for any consumer product for decades? For an “everyday” outdoor watch, I don’t think there has been another company as consistent for so long. As a collector with a soft spot for field watches, I could see myself becoming a Swiss Army watch collector? But, that would be dangerous, so I have deliberately tried to keep away. I do have a couple other, non-Eddie Bauer Swiss Army watches that I think are great. I have considered getting many, many more. It is sort of a limited repertoire, so I would probably get a little bored with them. I will however, take a second or third look and any Eddie Bauer/Swiss Army or Wenger.
Being a fan of the dive watch or diver style watch, I was quickly attracted to this one named Legend. It has pretty solid specs; 38mm, 100m WR, screw-down crown, acrylic(maybe) bezel insert and sapphire crystal, brushed stainless case. It did have an ailing quartz movement, though. It frequently stopped for some unknown reason. So, I have handed it over to my favorite watchmaker to sort it out. After a quartz overhaul, its back in action. I’m not sure what type of strap or bracelet it had originally. I have tried a few different things, but because it has not been running, I never was motivated it find the best look for it. At this writing it is on a black 2-piece nylon NATO with grey stripes.
It seems to be well-built. When I first examined it, it seemed familiar, but I could not place it? I think I have seen this watch before under a different brand? Much like a Wenger? Or a Fossil? Maybe I’ll get back to this one with a later update. Could be a good summer weekend watch for fun in and around the water?
Generic Field Watch?
I need to wrap up this edition. There will be more posts on Eddie Bauer finds, I’m sure, but these two I think represent another phase in the Eddie Bauer watch spectrum. The clean, simple, Field Watch style caught my eye. The cream dial version has a date code of 2007, I think, while the black dial’s date code seems wrong at 1980? They look the same. By this time there is less variety as Eddie Bauer was consolidating on its core product lines. The wide variety of watch styles and suppliers in the early to mid 90s may have shrunk by this time? The case back shows they have a movement made in Philippines. I’m guessing this may be a connection with Timex?
I found these two at separate times, but realized they are different color schemes of the same style. I don’t know if they were released at the same time. I can’t remember any original straps? Probably both leather? The black dial version was more of a rescue. The crystal was so scratched up that I had it replaced, I also tried to brush out some scratches on the silver bezel. That’s what I do; I find watches most people would not repair, then do things like get new batteries, movements, crystals and straps. The end result is paying way more than the watches cost new, or will be worth in resale. But, when I find things I like, I like to keep them going instead of throwing them out.
The cream dial with brushed gold bezel and gold crown was is lightly used condition. Everything is just more straight-forward with this simple design; all stainless, 38mm, 50m WR, classic field dial with bold Arabic numbers, inner 24 hr track. The black dial has lume on hour numbers and hands. The cream dial only has lume on the hands. The black numbers are not black lume, so not much help in the dark.
Lots of numbers on the back of these, but I have had no luck figuring out what they represent. Three particular numbers have me interested. The case back of the black on is so scratched its not a quick read. In the photo above of the cream dial’s case back you see clockwise from top V8V030, then CR2016(battery), 0807, then 7A. The black one’s corresponding numbers are V8V012, 0780, and 43.
The CR2016 battery and Philippines make me think we have a Timex type movement like an M905? Its a three hand with date at 3 o’clock. If it is, the weak link will be the date wheel mechanism. My general experience with preowned Timex Quartz movements like this is they can’t be fixed, and are normally replaced, if you can find a movement. I haven’t used these two much yet, so I will have to see how they are working.
Two nice looking, basic field watches that represent a time in watch history where the cheap quartz technology, outdoor fashion retailer, minimum specs come together in a product that is designed to be affordable and reliable for a time. They came to me because I started collecting Eddie Bauer watches first, style and design second, specifications/functions last. Then 20 years down the line, guys like me have to decide how long to keep it alive.
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