Vintage military twist on the Scout

I’ve been holding back on posting about the Allied LT series. At first I was trying to get a grip on the basic Allied line up as well as the more limited Archive Allied group so didn’t want to muddle things even more.
Now that the dust has settled more I find myself coming back to these unique 40mm darlings. I did cover their matching 42.5mm chronographs in my post Part 2 of the Allied collection. I guess I always wanted to separate them out for clarification and it also keeps the post less dense! I do tend to get bogged-down in details. More and shorter posts I think my be more engaging? Its hard for me to be succinct.
The LTs were in the later Archive Era, too. I think they were all released from 2018 or 2019 until 2021? This was a fruitful time for Timex with all sorts of vintage military influenced styles popping up seemingly simultaneously; Mk1s, Archive Mk1s, Allied, Allied Archive, Allied Coastline, as well as the Todd Snyder and Nigel Cabourn collaborations. It goes on and on….like the Archive Acadias. From what I can tell, the LTs came after most of these other lines. I don’t even know what the acronym LT stands for or where it came from? In true Timex fashion, there are a lot of unknowns.
Even with all that competition, the Allied LTs stand out with their unique design features. The first things that I notice are the crown at 4 o’clock and the knurled bezel treatment. Then, as you keep looking, the hand styles (some models), the lugs, the colors and straps keep providing new details not found on any other line.

Like the Mk1 and Allied collections, the Allied LT styles (sometimes) came in pairs. There is a 40mm three-hand and a matching 42mm Chronograph, with same colors and 20mm strap with some of the colorways. In this post I will concentrate on the 40mm three-hands. You can see more on the chronographs in the Allied Part 2 post. I prefer the 40mm size watch to the 42-43mm chronographs which are approaching maximum lug-to-lug length for my wrist. Also, I just do not seem to be drawn to chronographs as much as I am towards a simpler three-hand design for use a daily wear watch. Chronographs to me are a special tool for a specific use and mostly are visually more loud and distracting. I don’t need the stop-watch function in most normal days. After trying to dig up all the models, I have concluded there are more 43mm chronographs in the LT line than 40mm3-handers.
Chronographs
Now that I’ve opened this chronograph can of worms, I need to wrestle with it some more. The chronograph look, is a popular style currently in the watch enthusiast space. Especially popular is the vintage chronograph look across many price levels. I seem to be stuck on the idea of function versus style. I guess its like the dive watch thing; we love the idea of a dive watch but don’t need the functions of a dive watch. We like the look/idea of a chronograph but don’t really need the function. I say this as I sit here wearing a ’90s Bulova Marine Star chronograph! I rarely use the stop-watch functions, but I just like the look of the watch.
Its the American way; whatever product we buy, we usually get more features than we need, just in case…It could be cars, blenders, cameras, we just go for the upgrade and manufacturers know it. Everybody’s day is different; there are some who have frequent timing tasks where a chrono is nice to have, but mostly I think it is the look or the possibility of a chrono that attracts more than the need.
If I can get back to the Allied LTs, I must admit I am first attracted to the three-hand 40mm ones, but still like the chronographs and probably get them mostly because of the collector affliction to get all or most versions of a particular set — just to compare and contrast the specific features. As I say the look of a chronograph can be appealing even if you don’t use all the functions. The stop watch can always be something to play with if not really needed.
LT Distinctive Details
With the 3-hand LTs you get a 40mm case, thickness of 10mm and lug-to lug of 49mm. The cases are probably brass then coated. Case backs are stainless. There is the small date window at 3 o’clock. As stated earlier, the crown is at 4 o’clock. The crown is also signed, which is rare with Timex lines. The rounded end curved lugs are unique among all the Timex lines of the time. The lugs also sport non-functional slotted screw heads which add a lot of character along with the textured bezel. They are Water Resistant to 50m and have mineral crystals. The dial layout is mostly a traditional field watch style with inner 24 hr track, but there is also an outer track with numbers marking a running five minute intervals. This is unlike any other Allied line, but was also used on the MK1 Aluminum Archive line.
Now that I’ve covered some of the common traits of the line, I have say there are several flavors with different details. If you know Timex lines from this time frame, you know there is lots of variety within lines. I like to say, something for everybody. Just when you think you know the look of the series, you see something else that goes a different direction. Of the Allied LT 3-hands I have owned, they have had date codes of 2019 and 2021. I also have one with a date code that does not match any chart I have? It’s matching chronograph that I own, is dated 2019.

LT or Hybrid?
After all my research on this range, I am still not even sure what an Allied LT is? The four features I use are: 1) the knurled bezel, 2) 4 o’clock crown(3-hand), 3) dauphine/arrowhead handset and 4)The outer running 5-minute track on the dial. If one determines that an LT needs to have all four of these features then there are only two three-hand and 3 chronographs that qualify. The others that I include which have the pencil hands with orange tips — with only three of the above features, could actually be a hybrid range from 2019. Were they an LT, or did that come with the unique hand set?
There are not as many colors/styles among the LT lineup as say the regular Allied or Mk1s and most tend to go towards the darker military shades. Then again, there are some models with shiny cases and neon orange-tipped hands — so things can change direction quickly! On top of the colors, I like to divide the LTs into two main groups by the style of the hand set. One style, the newer group, is a vintage looking set with a dauphine minute hand and an arrow head hour hand. It is finished off with a lollipop second sweep(both ends). Interestingly, this hand set was also continued with the Timex Standard line in 2022-23, which don’t seem to be hitting the mark?

This example of a Timex Standard, TW2V44100, from 2022, I think, continues with the same hand set shape used on some of the LTs. I tend to ascribe this style to a vintage diver look, à la Omega Seamaster. I have seen this second sweep on old Rolex Submariners. I really like the look, but am not sure it works for all types of watches? There seems to be some discordance within this Standard range? Does this hand set work with a “field” watch like the LT?
The other, older, group has a more modern looking hand set with straight pencil style hour and minute hands that are tipped in a bright orange. The second had with these is a very fine one with no lollipop or arrow and has a wedge back end. In my post on the Allied chronographs, I called these more modern looking ones a Hybrid of two general Allied groupings or a Todd Snyder look because I think he consulted on these versions of the hybrid LT.

All the LTs I have seen, 3-hand and chrono, regardless of hand style, had this same case back above. This supports categorizing them all as LTs. The unique 20mm printed camo strap of the TW2T33600 3-hand 40mm and TW2T33100 chrono 42.5mm is interesting with its wide “D” pin and slot holes. However, it only comes with one keeper, so the strap end tends to fall out often. I wish Timex had included a second keeper.

As I said, I think the LTs came towards the end of the Archive era when Timex was shifting away from the military styling some? There is not as many models of LT and I do not have evidence that there was a matching pair of 3-hand and chrono for each colorway? I will now try to nail down those versions here. I know of 5 styles of Allied LT 3-hand, but 7 styles of Allied LT Chronograph? Its too bad, really, that more colorways of the LT were not released — especially the group with the dauphine/arrow hands. I could envision some nice tan, brown or cream dials or some brown or aged brass or silver-tone cases like the Allied Archive/Metropolis versions?

The above three styles of 40mm hybrid LTs from 2019 have the same type hands, so I group them together. Its a pencil style hour and and minute hands, tipped in orange with lume, a plain second sweep. Left: TW2T33300 has a semi brushed plated finish that is quite shiny. The signed crown and buckle on the aged brown leather strap appears to be more of a matte blasted finish. The dial is grey with black printed numbers and orange letters and mark at 12. The hand set is black with orange tips on the minute and second hand. Note that the date disk has a white background. The crystal on this model has a slight grey tint, so I think this is style is considered to b in the Metropolis sub group. Center: TW2T33200 has the same case, crown and buckle finishes as the TW2T33300. It’s dial is a charcoal with light grey printing and silver/orange hands. This darker dial is a more traditional military field watch look. Note the black background on date window. It has the same orange marking. Its crystal is not tinted. The strap is an aged grey leather. Right: TW2T33600 changes things a bit with a black pvd case, crown and strap buckle. The charcoal dial seems to be the same as TW2T33200 with light grey numbers but the running five minute number track on the outside is printed in orange while the 12 o’clock mark is not, like the other two. The hand set is also silver and orange.

The above two LTs have all four features, therefore could be considered the only true LTs? These two have a decidedly military look with the subdued colors, dark cases and canvas straps. They also have matching chronographs (see below). Additionally there is third, lighter color – silver dial chrono for which no 40mm, 3-hand match exists. Too bad! Do the “vintage Omega Seamaster” looking hands work on what is supposed to be a “field watch”? I think they are great! This is why I love Timex: they throw in all the symbols, at the lowest price possible to achieve the effect. This is a vintage military fashion classic. Maybe this is too much cosplay and too little quality and too little authenticity for military watch enthusiasts, but so much fun. Left: TW2T76000 with dark olive green dial, cream numbers, dark matte grey hands with faded orange trim. It hard to see, but each our marker has is a cream outline filled with the faded orange. There is no lume on these watches, which puts them firmly in the fashion watch realm? Unique to these LTs, a canvas and leather strap is perfect for the effect if not what I would call high quality. Right: TW2T76100 has dark blue dial with off-white numbers and the same dark grey and faded orange hand set. The case may be closer to gunmetal than black, but I have yet to see it in-hand. It has the same canvas strap in dark blue. As I said, its too bad there was never a Silver dial 3-hand to go with the chronograph.

Above are the three pure LT Chronographs, Left: Green TW2T75800VQ, Center: Silver TW2T75700VQ, Right: Blue TW2T75900VQ. While they are matches ti the 40mm 3-handers, notice the dial layout is not the same, but more in common with other Allied styles.

These four above represent the Hybrid LT group. Left to Right: TW2T32900 Charcoal dial, TW2T32700 Cream dial, TW2T32800 Grey dial, TW2T33100 charcoal dial/blk case/camo strap. Notice they all have knurled bezel and orange tipped hands. Three of them have “matches” with the three hybrid LTs above. One difference with its 40mm match is the TW2T32900 which came on a tan “Redwing” type strap while the 40mm had an aged grey one? Lastly, the TW2T32700 Cream dial, is interesting, too, in that I know of no 40mm three-hand match for it?
General Thoughts on Timex
You can’t blink without missing a new Timex release. They are relentless at churning out affordable watches at an alarming rate. They have so many lines going so many directions it is hard to see patterns in the product lineups until after they have been discontinued. Honestly, I don’t see many styles until they appear on grey market sites!
As much as I love Timex I am frustrated by the way they do things. I don’t understand the back story for many of their offerings. They just come and go without much information being available. How they decide when to do marketing campaigns, and where they place ads, is hard for me to determine. Its even hard to se complete catalogs or listings of their lines. It must be that they have so many styles continuously coming out there is no way to publish it anywhere before it is old news! Their web site is awful for describing and grouping lines or styles. Its just a moving target of random watches.
They obviously want to be the every man’s watch choice for affordability and want a broad range. It makes one wonder which styles or lines they really care about and how they plan the life cycle or continuation of a line? Why they release styles and where the ideas come from is generally unknown to the public. I get the feeling they are covering all the bases and throwing out products until they see what sticks. With so many styles/models, how much design and marketing effort can go into each one?
Keeping the price down is the main priority while delivering the most they can. There is a trade off; lower price means less quality or longevity or repairability. I have always felt Timex watches provide a lot of impact for the money, but the quality can only be so high. Also, the lines evolve quickly or disappear quickly, so repair is a second thought. Value is a term frequently discussed with watches. Lots of reviews I read on Timex watches seem to be conflicted over value delivered. Quality in constrained by price but quality control, particularly with quartz movements can be an issue. Most of the problems I see with preowned or new Timex quartz watches are with the day and/or date complication or just the general crown/stem operation. Sometimes the Indiglo back lighting ceases to work.
One thing Timex seems to be good at is sharing common components across lines and over time to recoup the tooling investment. The pace of product development must be rapid? With new manufacturing technology, fast prototyping and their FINS along with smaller production runs, maybe stopping or starting a line is not as big a deal? All companies seem to make sure they don’t make any more units then are selling. Lots of first releases sell out fast because of smaller runs.
Revival?
As Timex lines come and go, I always wonder if or when they might come back again or how they will evolve. I think the LT might be a candidate to come back for another go-round. It had a unique look, maybe more quirky, than the Allied or Scout that had plain case and lugs. The LT never got fully developed like other Allied lines. Maybe it was the COVIVD disruption and subsequent supply network issues? Maybe it was not selling well or Timex thought the vintage military trend had come to an end? The crown position and the bezel really set them apart from all other Allied lines.

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