Passion and Pragmatism

How do I write about one of the biggest watch makers in the world? Citizen can mean a lot of different things to different people. They offer so many types of watches it is hard to look at the whole. I guess I will just write about the sliver of the brand I know? I will write about these three Citizen watches I own and the conflict I have with them regarding utility and style.
I have been reading intensely about all kinds of watches over the past five years. I have been following the trail of military influenced watches wherever it goes. Citizen has been a part of that trail, but only in a limited way. Early on I tried to learn about various Garrison and Chandler lines, but I kept running into the problem of not getting excited or passionate about Citizen watches? Something was missing. I just couldn’t understand them. So many were just too big or unexciting? There were some I liked, but few if any I was crazy about.
Citizen watches elicit feelings like Honda cars do for me; they are boring but pragmatic. They are everywhere, common place, but reliable. I kept thinking they are technological wonders but have no romance. Even now as I scan over all the Promaster offerings that are packed with layers of numbers, bezels, sub dials and features and techno-wizardry, I think to myself. “that is the last thing I want on my wrist!” They just seem too big and over-wrought.
Citizen to me means reliability, advanced technology, accuracy, manufacturing excellency. At the same time they seem visually awkward, lacking style or soul. There is no emotion. They just want to perform their functions without any fuss. Their website, even seemed awkward to me, too. With Citizen, I lose track of time, of chronology. Funny to say when talking about watches! I find it hard to know how old any particular model is. They have arcane model numbers and it seems hard to discern which line any model belongs to. I don’t know what differentiates Garrison from Chandler.
This could be me, the way I think. A military colleague once told me I was very “literal”, and I always think about that and what he meant. I think it stems from some ways I organize things to counter (not diagnosed) ADHD? I think I just never went as deep into Citizen as I had other brands.
When I scour the web looking for Citizen watches, I have trouble placing them in time. “When did this model appear?”, I ask myself. Maybe part of it is that they continue model lines longer that other brands? Or that they retain their price/value longer? Recently I just discovered on their site, right there in front of me, the date of introduction for each model! When you click on Product Details, you see on the left the release date right under the model number. I also learned while writing this how to get some date info from the serial number, if it can be had.
Mall Watch
Part of the problem, too, might be that they have been ubiquitous mall watches. I am a Baby Boomer raised on the suburban mall. I have lived through the birth and death of the mall. Citizen has always been and is still there at the mall. It is one of the people’s watches. J.C. Penney, Macy’s, Zales, Fred Meyer, etc., they are there, based on the price points of the store, but generally blingy, big, dressy models uninteresting to me. Even at the military exchanges I shop, they are always present.
By being ever-present, you take them for granted. Seikos next to them always had more lure. There are Citizen watches that do appeal to me, its just that they are rarely in the case at the stores. It is more often big gold styles or Promaster Skyhawks, busy chronographs, or dress watches. The Garrison line is scarce. Price is also an issue. There always seems to be more of the pricey models. Being a dive watch fan, I try to like the Promaster divers, but they too, have some challenging designs? I am not alone, I think. When shopping at military exchanges, the more “field” style Citizens and Seikos, in smaller sizes seem to go fast. When ever I see one I like, its usually gone the next time I am there. Others must be in step with me?
Style
Maybe its the style of Citizens? The designs? The overall visual components of a watch that subconsciously form a type, a category that you are comfortable with. With Citizens some things are just not what you expect? Something is discordant but you don’t really know what it is at first. Of course any brand likes to stand out from others, but Citizen seems to have a tendency for quirky designs. Do they want to be different or are the style element results of function or technical decisions? They go their own way. There is always one element of the designs that just throws me off, keeps me from going all in?
Size
When I first started collecting watches seriously, I thought I always wanted smaller watches, 36mm to 42mm at most. Many Citizens were in the 43mm or bigger range so I didn’t even consider them. I have this rule of thumb that I should stay at 50mm or less with lug-to-lug for my wrist. Even when I would buy a 43mm Timex, I would disregard a 43mm Citizen! Now, I know I need to try on more and consider the lug length/shape and overall lug-to-lug dimension. A good example is that I collected several Timex Allied Coastline models measuring 43mm x 51mm, but one of the Garrisons I’m highlighting here is 43mm x 49mm! I think what I am saying is the Citizens seemed bigger than the Timexes because the designs were less appealing.
Take the Promaster Divers for example; I want a Citizen diver, but there is no easy choice. The one I really want is a new Fujistbo at 41mm but the price stops me. There seems to be lots of preowned for sale. Do people not like them? I’m still a retro fan and it has a vintage diver look. The other Promaster Divers seem either too big at 44mm or too small at 36.5mm? I also now consider the visual size versus the physical size. Maybe the 42mm NY0160-66E auto with a left side crown? My point is I need to try some on, but there are not many that get me excited at the price and size I think I want?
Field Watch?
The field watch style became my main gateway into watches even though I had owned other types of watches for decades. While looking into field watches I ran across Citizen Garrisons. They were on the radar, but as mentioned, didn’t have the vintage military romance that attracted me. By purpose or indifference Citizen watches lack the nostalgic military touches. They seem more oriented to aviation than field. Maybe some of the older Garrison chronographs were more successful at this? They also seem more focused on technology than emotion. All the while I was rediscovering watches I was living with a Citizen. The funny thing is, none of these has a classic field watch layout. This makes me consider; what is a field watch? What is a military watch? What is a pilot watch? Some designs blur the lines.
Hello B690-S086736

This watch has been a loyal, trustworthy servant for a long time. I can’t even remember what year, exactly, that I got it! I think it was 2013, based on serial number? It was a birthday gift from my wife. As I remember, I must have shown her some Citizens in a case at a military exchange store. She picked it, not me. I think, at the time, I would have preferred another model with a smaller case and a lighter dial. She probably got this one because it cost more and assumed it was better? It was a substantial purchase, price-wise, at the time. It was probably a better quality watch than I had ever had? It was also solar powered. This was totally new to me. I asked her when I started this post if she remembered getting it. She did not.
I always considered it too big for a field watch. 43mmx49mm. See, the size thing again. It should be 40mm. But really, it does not feel that big. The dial is big, not the case and lugs. It has dial layout like a vintage pilot watch rather than a field watch; Minutes instead of hours and no 24 hour track! What? It has nicely shaped sword hands. A nice crown.
I was in the Army Reserve, so it naturally became my work watch. It has been with me to Australia, Korea, Thailand and has never missed a beat. It was just always there. By this time I was mostly a staff officer, so it didn’t get dirty outside much. At home it was in the drawer of my nightstand, or on top. In the last five years at least, it has been there on my nightstand as more of a clock rather than a wrist watch.

When I wake up in the middle of the night, I just reach over and grab the Citizen and the lume is always readable. I don’t wear it much, but I use it every day/night. Its a different relationship I have with this watch. It was my Army watch, not one I wore every day. I had other cheap fashion quartz watches that I wore. It was equipment, not an everyday watch. Now, I would consider it more as a possible everyday watch. However, I don’t use any watch everyday! I have so many watches now that none are everyday watches.

This was my first small seconds hand watch as well as my first solar. A few years back I thought the original 22mm green strap was looking worn, so I tried a Barton sailcloth. Never liked it. It has to go. Recently I decided I had to find something else. When starting to write this I pulled out the original strap and decided it is not that bad! Maybe I will put it on again. I have also tried this Strapsco hybrid, which I do like. I think I would like a Barton hybrid, one of my favorite straps. Later generations of this watch moved to a 20mm strap. Interesting…I don’t have many watches with 22mm straps, so this is an issue. I am swimming in 20mm straps. For some reason I really like it on a green canvas look two-piece. Its just not a NATO strap watch to me?
I would not say it is the best looking watch…There were other versions of this watch I have seen using the same case size, crown, strap style. A Japan market one blacked-out with yellow numbers. Also, I have seen a more “civilian” version that was more grey/black/silver, I think. It has a no-nonsense layout, but is just a bit boring? Looking dated. Lots of empty space, I guess for the solar collection?

This above shot of the BU2055-16E looks great! I would call it the later/current and better-looking version of my old friend. There was a light tan dial version too, at some point. I’m not sure I like the day/date/24hr on sub dials, though? Gives me a 90s vibe. But the hands, and the bigger beige numbers/markings are great. Also moved to a 20mm strap like the older Seiko 5, with the leather strip. Case is the same but lugs are thicker. I would be all over a 38mm version of this with just a small seconds!

The above cream colored AW5005-12X, which I think was from 2018, does have a classic field watch dial layout, but is still the big(to Me) 43mm. I’d like this at 38mm.
Hello BM8180-03E

I had this one on the radar for a long time. It, again, was not getting me very excited, but had classic modern field watch potential. It was after all a Citizen (see above). It has been around since 2017, I think! See what I mean with Citizen?! I would see it all over the place, but it was never on the front burner.

There is a black cased version, too, but it might have been for the Asian market? I don’t think I’ve ever seen one at a store? This polished case version comes on a good-looking 18mm canvas strap, with grommet holes, I could not make work for my wrist! It also had strong spring bars. I knew it would have to go after the first few days. Now I have it on a cheap single-pass nylon, which is better, but I’m not sure what I want it on…I think a basic Barton canvas would be just right?
This one has a more normal dial with hours, and the sword hands again. With a 5min track around the outside, like an A17 milspec. Still no 24hr track! I guess Citizen really wanted to avoid that look? It has a slightly generic look. Solar again, 100m WR, day/date, treated mineral crystal. The size is much better, to me, at 37mm x 43mm. The hands are great, but the dial and the brushed top/polished sides case do not excite me. Crown and small crown guards a re pretty cool. Hands and numbers/markers are lumed, but nothing to write home about.
I got it at a small family owned jeweler, an AD, on sale, of course. I wanted to support the business since they actually have a watchmaker. I always feel good when I buy something at an actual store with humans behind the counter to talk to. However, like most people I buy watches online, for many reasons, mostly to do with price.

Functionally, this could be the perfect low-end utility field watch? It lacks the style and vintage romance of my Timex Mk1s, or even most Timex Allied models, but it is so darn practical and care-free.
Solar Eco-Drive
I have to talk about solar powered quartz here. I like many people have asked, “why are not more watches using solar power”? Having many, many, many quartz watches, the logistics involved with batteries has become a major part of my collecting. For the watch enthusiast that has one, or five or so quartz watches it may not seem like a problem. Just pull the stem out when not using. You know hat kind of battery you will need in two years. If you buy and resell or collect a large number of watches it is different. When you multiply those 5 by ten or twenty and add in vintages over 40 years, and keep watches for several years, pretty soon you lose track of how old batteries are and what type and what condition they are in.
I buy as many preowned watches as I do new. I know there are lots of owners out there that sell their watches before they even need to change the battery. Some do it for that exact reason! When you own as many battery powered watches as I do, you learn to change batteries of the dead, old, cheap watches you acquire. You then are getting every type battery ever made, and assorted tools and equipment and trying not to damage said watches in the process.
Owning a solar powered watch also means adopting a new routine that is different from your mechanical watches. At some point your solar needs light. You can’t always keep it in a covered watch box or in a drawer. It becomes a visible room accessory for part of the time at least. That is how my bedside Citizen became a permanent night stand clock.
They can go for months without a good light charge, but at some point… If they have been stored for months or years they may need a good day or two in good light to get up and running. So, if you have had it covered for months, you might not be able to wear it just now. You will have to develop a routine for regular use. Your Aquaracer Solargraph will have to be exposed some of the time!
The Citizen Eco-Drives are great. Knowing I never have to worry about a battery. I have had my B690-S086736 for 12 years or so and have not given maintenance a thought. It could go for 20 years? Each different solar movent has its own capacities, but the Eco-Drives are some of the best. More brands should have solar watches.
Hello BM8560-02X

Here we go again. I was watching this model for years online and at a brick and mortar store. This style has been around since 2021. What kept attracting me? Again, it was unorthodox as Citizens tend to be. It took a while to find a reduced price. I swear I was watching one in a store for years and the price never dropped? I got this recently on eBay for a little more than half of what Citizen shows online. There must be something wrong with it?
I like the trench/pilot-style numbers, the green dial and the fauxtina. I found some vintage romance in a Citizen! Not much, but just enough to give me hope. With this watch there is all kinds of stuff going on; titanium, vintage nod, colors, even triangle and bars-style dial layout. But it retains the same style hands(bolder) and modern feel. And, of course the Eco-Drive. The drawbacks are the same. Is it a pilot watch or a field watch or a sport watch? I have seen this style associated with the name Avion, but am not sure what that is? A standard 3 o’clock Day/Date. Leather. What is going on here? By the way the day/date on this one as well as the B690-S086736 sits a little too deep in the window.

This model is part of a broader line of Garrison watches with this dial with these vintage Garrison numbers. One in black or blue with a bracelet and a chronograph. I have given one of the black dial bracelet versions to a friend on his retirement. “Super Titanium” I think it refers to Citizen’s formulation of titanium, the alloy material, or scratch-resistance. However, there are several lines with this titanium. There is a similar, bolder, sportier line of Promaster Tough, smaller but that looks bigger. (See, I have trouble with chronology and taxonomy with the Citizen organization when using their site.) There are Promaster divers and dress in titanium, too. Even the $4,000 The Citizen line.
The green BM8560-02X has also stepped up to sapphire for the crystal and a nice leather strap which I plan to keep it on for a while. I like the color and sheen of the titanium more that the lightweight benefits. I like the warmness from the combination of colors in the dial, numbers, leather and titanium that I don’t feel with the other two watches here. It is still too big. Even though it shrunk one mm from the B690-S086736 to 42mm, I’d like to see it at 38-41mm. Come on, Citizen, make some 38-40mm field-ish, watches! This is still more pilot than field.
Final thoughts
So here I remain contemplating the soul of a watch versus the technology of a watch. Citizen does that to you. Clearly Citizen is more concerned with technology and performance value than with romance. They appear to be happy to offer watches that you need not get emotionally attached to to benefit from.
I think lots of watch enthusiasts have similar feeling to mine. When you think Citizen, you think technology, not nostalgia, not beautiful design. When they do use vintage cues, it can be awkward. In recent years I think Citizen has had to concede to the yearning for mechanical watches and nostalgia. Maybe they feel they are doing that side of things with Bulova?
Its ironic that I like the titanium one most; It has the most advanced materials while at the same time the most vintage cues. Citizen with its use of new technology is also fighting a battle with traditional watch enthusiasts. Even though some can see the benefits of solar and titanium, they want mechanical movements and steel.
When I think of brands like Vaer that are successfully able to mix more nostalgia and soul into their technical watches, I wonder why Citizen can’t give it a try on some models. Maybe they have decided to stay clear of the retro trends? Even if they press on with modern, forward looking technology, they need to work on the visual design part, too.
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