Timex Mk1 40mm Auto

The Mk1s are back after five years

When I saw the email from Timex about the release of some new Mk1s, I was on it. You see, I have a soft spot for all things Mk1. The Mk1 line was a lot of things; a military watch, a fashion watch, a people’s watch. It sort of epitomized what Timex is; enjoyable, affordable and limited specs. This 2025 release includes a mix of 36mm quartz, 36mm hand-wound, and 40mm automatic versions. I thought the Mk1 was done for, but Timex, without any advance notice, brings it back. Now that Mk1s are back, I am giving the whole line a rethink, myself.

I covered the new 36mm releases in another post, so this time I am going to concentrate on the automatic. I had been hoping for a continuation, or return of the Mk1, but I never really decided for myself in what form I wanted it back? There was so many — almost too many versions, of the quartz 40mm 3-hand and 42mm chronograph in the pre-COVID era. Considering the MK1 as an automatic puts a whole new spin on the watch and the line.

As I became more of a spec/tool watch enthusiast over time, I suppose I thought I wanted a more field worthy version, and maybe in a 38mm size. The problem for Timex is that since it has affordable traditions, its hard to move into the tool watch arena without drawing the ire of fans for the inevitable price increase needed to upgrade the durability. The competition is also tough. Timex has done this with the titanium James collabs and Expedition North lines, and even its new Deepwater Reef divers. I don’t think it can do that with the Mk1 line?

The Mk1 line remains a fashion/everyday office watch even though it resembles a tool watch. What Timex has done here with the Mk1 is what it did recently with other lines like the Q and Marlins; add an automatic version to attract the more enthusiast crowd. This allows for a higher price tag and gains some credibility among auto watch aficionados.

Unlike the new 36s, there are no accompanying new 40mm quartz options. So, I wonder what Timex is doing here? Why the auto MK1 now? I suppose I can’t separate it from the whole group release? As a group it makes me wonder if Timex is trying to get back some military watch fans lost in recent years? I also wonder if military vintage is still a thing? It is for me, but I have written before that maybe the vintage military fashion trend has passed. Still, among watch enthusiasts, military connections remain very popular, though mostly via more spec/tool watches or true vintage models. There are homages to military watches like Praesidus, Benrus, MWC, Redwood and Hamilton in many forms.

I imagine Timex sales are down, like everything else now in the current unpredictable, inflation-laden economic situation. Is the auto MK1 a way pull back some interest in down times? I would think Timex would also throw in some new 40mm quartz or solar Mk1s at a lower price to get a broader appeal? The auto allows them to kill two birds with one stone; gain enthusiasts and not use batteries. I do think some more solar releases are called for. Timex is doing this with the outdoor Expedition Field Post Solar 36mm. That watch is also a 100m WR watch.

What is a Mk1?

So this causes me to reconsider just what is/was a MK1 is. Its a Timex for one thing. That means it has to be under $200 unless it has other special features. I think all my older quartz Mk1s were purchased at between $70 and $120, depending on model. I bought several preowned ones, too. The automatic movement puts it into the $250-60 range, out of your average quartz price range. The plastic 36mm quartz comes in at $80. Steel case quartz are in the $100-150 range. Expedition Solars into $150-160. The old 40mm quartz Mk1s were in the $110 range if I remember? If Timex were to release a new Mk1 steel quartz, I suppose it would be in the $150 range?

The Mk1 was a way to bring the look of a classic military watch into everyday fashion. The old 40mm Mk1s had, as lots of Timex watches do, just enough of several attributes to get your interest, but not enough of any to raise the price too high. They were interesting, versatile designs, with a mix of vintage, military, steel(some), leather, could dress up, mid-size, 30m WR, and Indiglo. They were not really dress, not really a tool/field watch even though they looked it(you got a Scout or Allied for light field duty). They allowed a lot of people to get some sporty looks without having to invest too much. One could partake of vintage military without the hazards of vintage or the cost of true MILSPEC specimens. The 40mm MK1 also gave you a bigger watch that looked like the actual little 34mm MILSPEC issue watches. Because they were offered in so many color combinations, you could get a few to exercise some fashion expression.

I guess I consider the MK1 as a style that borrowed from military spec watches, but was not quite a severe replica. They had little modern style details that gave them some flair.

Automatic Mk1 2025

Now, with an automatic movement, the MK1 takes a step up into a new arena. You don’t have to worry about the battery. Indiglo back lighting is gone, so the lume becomes more of a factor. However this watch really has nothing more than minimal lume. I don’t think “serious” watch people find backlighting to be a worthy feature anyway? With the auto movement taking up more space, Indiglo is not feasible. That said, Timex is not touting the lume in any marketing copy I’ve seen?You can enjoy the smooth sweep of the second hand and gain some credibility in enthusiast circles because you know the auto experience. The Miyota 8215 series movement with ghost position for no date (Timex doesn’t actually tell you which movement is used) can be repaired when needed. There is even a new style case back with a tiny blue-tinted window to view your auto movement. Being a Timex, every penny counts, so no full glass(sapphire) back. Should have just left the case back solid.

You get the classic MILSPEC look and don’t have to worry about a little splash or quick submersion because you have at least 50m WR. The crystal is classic acrylic, not mineral glass, so it will scratch, but you can polish it easier. You get a new dial with a MK1 logotype, something left off prior models. You get a vintage hand set the feel of a classic everyday utility watch. It comes with a sturdy 20mm Cordura/leather two-piece, quick-release strap with a distinctive military look. Its fairly generic looking. The floating keeper was already too loose on arrival. Cordura is more durable, but its finish is more for a tool watch. Canvas evokes more vintage/military feelings and would be more appropriate for this reissue. You can easily customize the look for your style variations with other 20mm straps. Overall, this type of watch is nothing new or original, but within the Timex world it is something new; bringing the military look out of the cheap quartz space and into that tier of low-end autos.

In the above photos you can see the new MK1 40mm dial between two older quartz MK1s. The hour markers were deliberately made smaller. Why?This new auto’s dial introduces a new shape hour marker which is a hybrid between the triangle and a square so that it looks like a baseball home plate. It looks more like a Hamilton-GG-W-113-3. The smaller size reduces the area, therefore lume potential. You can also see three different hand sets among the three MK1 versions. The number style is slightly different, too, but you have to look closely to notice. I prefer the classic MK1 Din-style with rounded ends. Its one of the things that gave the Archive Era MK1s so much character. Like the 36mm hand-wind, the min/sec track has added more tiny numbers at the 5 min increments, which gives it a more vintage feel. Same with handset. Why did designers want to take a 1960-80 look and make it seem older?

As for style, the new Mk1 auto has pure classic black military field watch dial and hands. Original Mk1s were a W-46374B MILSPEC-like design. But, the size was bumped up to 40mm for more presence. This new version of dial has modified things slightly, and I can’t say its an improvement? I think the syringe hand shape is a slimmer style than used in the Archive 40mm MK1s, which were my favorites of the MK1 line. Nothing really new happening with the basic looks, but different in the details. Its a fatter(13.5mm) package now, to facilitate the auto movement. Its about the size of the auto Marlins. Pure classic vintage military looks, just fatter.

More to Come?

Now I have to ask, what does this mean? Is this a one off or are other dials and case finishes coming? Unlike buying a few looks of quartz styles, at this price range, the average Timex customer will not be getting several $260 Mk1s? If the line is to return, I would think some more battery quartz or solar quartz options would have to be in the plans? This new auto 40 was offered in two different straps, green or tan, but no other dial or case options.

With other vintage reinterpretations in this price range, Timex has shown the willingness to offer multiple color/finish/strap options, so maybe we will see some more versions? Maybe they are testing the waters? I could at least see a white or cream dial? But again, what does Timex want to do with this. As before, with the older Mk1s, they are not doing a like for like watch in different sizes; No 36mm auto and no 40mm quartz or mechanical? There is no real link between the new 36s and 40s. I’m not sure that a 40mm MK1 quartz customer is also a 40mm auto customer?

What size for the MK1?

The 40mm Mk1 was always a bigger fashion version of a 34-36mm military field watch. Without getting deep into case and lug particulars for these watches, I like to say that 38mm, in general is a good size for me. I do love the older 40mm quartz Mk1s that have a lug-to-lug of 47mm. They are almost 11.5mm thick. This type of watch, to me, should not be any bigger than 40mm. I would even go so as far as to say it is too big, but, it is understandable that Timex has to cover as many sizes as possible. The 36mm Mk1s are at about 43mm long. Timex never did a 38mm Mk1 or Allied. They did do several Navi versions in 38mm, that are just great. Those also have a lug-to-lug of 47mm. I pretty much rule out any watch over 50mm long.

I think a tool version MK1 with 100m WR and sapphire, with solar quartz, at 38mm x 46-47mm, and a little flatter than the auto, might be a fun concept. There is some 38mm precedence like the 38mm TW2V41700 mechanical on a bracelet, a watch I really like and should write about. In that line too, are the TW2V54000 and TW2V00700JR 38mm mechanicals that even have MK1-like dials! There is the TW2W78100, 38mm titanium quartz, too. Lastly, there is also the solar TW2V00400 with a Mk1-like dial(but not the nice MK1 number style) in 36mm with solar. All of these fall under the Expedition North line and have at least 100m WR. Again, the MK1 was never really a tool watch. Its main purpose is a style watch for everyday wear to the office or knocking around after work or on weekends; nothing too rough or too wet. I think this auto Mk1 could have worked better at 38mm, but, you have to look at the whole line and the history of the Mk1. There was never a 38mm Mk1 and not many 36mm. Most people think 40mm when they think of a MK1. 40mm also works for the widest range of wrist sizes.

Final thoughts

If you are already a fan of the older Mk1s, this might be interesting to you. If you never experienced those quartz MK1s you still might be interested in this as one of Timex’s many retro-inspired automatics. It seems like it could be a fun everyday, casual watch. I think its a watch only Timex would make — with that particular combination of features/specs/theater at a carefully managed price point. Its always hard to find comparisons.

Now if you are a vintage or military collector, this size and movement combination might be a little offensive? The purist military collector might have also never really have accepted the 2017 40mm MK1s either. In that case, the 36mm steel mechanical might be more acceptable as an everyday stand-in for a vintage watch?

The tool watch crowd will not really be moved by this new release since the 50m WR did not shift the MK1 out of the casual fashion watch category. This Mk1 is approaching a price, though, that puts it in competition with tool watches. I can see a path for a “MK1 Field” branch that could move into this space.

Since I was all-in for the original Mk1s, this release is a must-have. It does give me pause because it changes, again, what a MK1 is or can be. I have come to accept that the MK1 is a everyday style watch with military flavor. That’s enough for me. I also know I would not try to make it perform as a tool watch. It doesn’t have to be a military replica. The auto is a fun watch like the other MK1s are, but just more special for the movement.

I also feel that if Timex is going to do this to revitalize the MK1 line, they need to bring in more quartz or solar quartz 40mm options. The MK1 line was not an auto line. Because of the roots of this concept, I also think a 38mm size would draw interest from all camps. As “Mk1 Fashion” or “MK1 Field”, more color schemes are needed if the line is going to continue.

This is a safe release. Nothing too original or too exciting. I can’t say the styling is exciting. It seems there was an attempt to take the W-46374B MILSPEC and make it more vintage? Why? Frankly, the dials of the new 36 and 40 are a little weird to me? A little boring. I do like them, still, but I am not sure why they needed to change?Timex felt they needed to something different, but it didn’t get better. Just different. I still like the older quartz versions better with their simpler, bolder dial layouts. My favorites are the Aluminum Archive versions which are just more interesting than this new one. They also had more interesting straps. If Timex wants to get people back, they should bring back the Italian-designed Archive/Mix straps!

Adding an automatic movement to the line changes the functionality of the MK1 and moves it to a slightly different category of everyday watch. However, I think it has lost a little of it’s personality with this release.

Some people may question the basic idea of an automatic Mk1? Our relationships with watches are complicated. They pack a lot of symbolism on your arm. Every watch is a crazy mix of fashion, utility, history, status, emotion and economy. There are valid arguments for battery, solar and mechanical movements. For now I am just happy to see Mk1s back.