Taking the Plunge (and hike) with Old and New
I was writing more than one post at a time. Sometimes I start a post topic and get side tracked. Or research for one delays things, so I start another. I started reading about the Seiko 5 lines, both old and new, recently. As I read the reviews from 2019 when the “new” Seiko 5s were released it brought back the debate at the time over the discontinued SKX models and the new direction Seiko was taking.
The funny thing about doing this post is I do not consider myself a hardcore Seiko fan. I love all kinds of watches but I have few Seikos. We each have our niches and express our personal style of watch ownership. Even though I really admire the brand and have deep interest in some lines, something has kept me from diving in like I have other brands? Price is part of it. Even though Seiko is considered an entry level value brand, most of my watches are well under the price of a new Seiko 5. I can’t really justify spending for a Prospex.
Coincidentally, while working on this I read a related article on A Blog To Watch. Things have changed with Seiko. I concur with these thoughts.
The way I collect watches—and I am a collector, is I get many different cheap preowned watches or old new stock. I don’t wear one or a few watches all the time. Most of my watches get worn sparingly because I switch around often. Being retired, I am home a lot and switch watches almost daily. I am busy with many interests and I switch watches by activity or just for fun. So, my point is I would rather have three $80 watches than one $250 watch. That said, I do have many watches that cost more than a new Seiko 5, but not everyday drivers.The idea of wearing one watch as a do everything watch, now, is crazy to me! There have been times in my life when I did that, but now now.
Since the initial 2019 release, Seiko has been pumping out so many new Seiko 5 models, I can’t keep up. I know there were some in 2023 and 2024. 2025 saw the SRPL set come in! I usually come late to the game, and that has been the case with the new Seiko 5s. Also, I never had an SKX007, so a lot of the debate was over my head. I do like many of the new Seiko 5s but have not been motivated to act much.
SKX Replacement?
The main issue of the end of one line and the start of another is interesting to me. I figured I would throw in my two cents. The thing is, 2019 was really about two different stories that were separate issues. The new Seiko 5s did not actually replace the SKX. The SKX line was discontinued and the New Seiko 5s replaced the old Seiko 5 line. Old SKX 007 fans combined the two changes; the New Seiko 5 was the replacement because that was the closest style/price point. The SKX concept of a low-end, rugged, 200m diver with a outmoded movement was abandoned by Seiko. The old 100m Seiko 5 concept was upgraded with a more modern movement.
What is confusing though, is the Seiko site does call the Seiko Sport “diver” style the SKX Series even though none use the SKX designation that I know of?! They are all SRPL, SSK, SRPK, SRE, SRPD, SRPJ and so on. This seems pretty desperate on the part of Seiko to use a sort of bait-n-switch title to get customers to look at new Seiko 5s? They tell us the new Seiko5s are “inspired by” the old SKX. Sort of a PSYOP to get people to consider a thing as something it is not?
On the dive side of things, Seiko probably, rightly, realized that few people were diving with a SKX, and that most all diver watches now are really for style. If someone was really looking for a serious 200m dive watch, they were not looking at an SXK. The Prospex line is there for those customers.
For the large Seiko 5 customer base looking for a low-end, stylish, sporty watch, 100m WR was enough and a more modern hand winding, hacking auto movement would be welcomed. Many of the old style would be reissued with the new streamlined components and movements. The cases got a bit bigger and standardized. Not only do the new generation of 5s look like the SKX, the 2025 SRPLs look like a Prospex with rectangular markers instead of circles. Or, I just discovered the SKX399 from a Fratello article. This article actually does a better job tackling the subjects I have been struggling with here for weeks!
On the field watch side, the new movement and cases would also upgrade the old styles. The watches would get bigger as well. Life moves on
What was not done was to continue and upgrade the SKX line of 200m WR diver. Even though some styles looked like the SKX classics, the Seiko 5 was not replacing the SKX. It just happened to be something that could offer some of the same characteristics.
Field/Pilot SNK
I only had one old Seiko 5; an SNK805K2, the green dial, green strap. To me it was a military watch. My only auto that I actually used. I did have a ’70s auto Seiko that was buried away in a drawer, rarely seeing the light of day. What got me into watches was simple field style watches with military look or heritage. I was not a dive watch enthusiast until later as I started reading about all kinds of divers and the history of dive watches in general. Seiko was always an option, but I just never got really excited about them? Its a funny thing because you would think with the huge array of Seiko watches available, I would have pursued them more?
Its sort of the same situation I wrote about with Citizen; so many watches to choose from but so few that really get me excited. No doubt quality watches at reasonable prices, but most lack the soul and romance of other brands. Seiko watches, like Citizen watches just seem so perfect they are almost generic? They are what everybody wants so therefore have no quirks, no uniqueness, other than being everything to everybody.
SRPE Aged Finish
As Seiko has been spewing out a flurry of new Seiko 5s over the past five or six years, I never bit until I saw an SRPE. They fall under that misleading category of “SKX Series”. That aged brass/bronze finish on the SRPE80K1 got me! Bought it on first sight. This is not the classic, traditional look of a polished/brushed diver that most people prefer. Maybe that is one reason I like it so much; its different, has some theater to it.
Funny thing is the SRPE80 was not even a US release. I think these were a Asia or Europe release. I hadn’t even seen or knew of the silver SRPE70 at the time. When I saw that faux aged gold case and bezel I had to have it. If you follow any of my posts you know I love these unique finishes on any brand or type of watch. I love the case/bezel/buckle finish. I love that the bezel and case are the same; that they did not do a black bezel insert.
Textured Dial
I can’t say the same about the dial treatment. It was not love at first sight. The dial texture is something I have never seen before and I think was intended to look like an aged, encrusted, patinaed surface? Its a speckled, variegated look with random cross-hatched spots that each reflect light differently. Its sort of the theme of the watch that has been lying at the bottom of the sea for 30 years. On the gold watch the dial is black with the treatment, but really comes across as silvery-grey.
Because I liked the case/bezel finish so much, I accepted the dial. Over time I have come to enjoy it more. At first I wanted it to be blacker, but depending on the light it changes from dark to light. Definitely interesting.
It appears to me the effect is achieved by laying a thin clear textured layer over a solid black base? Anyway, I guess you couldn’t leave the dial an untouched flat black after aging the case/bezel? I would have preferred a more subtle touch, but you have to give Seiko credit for going big?
The two-piece hybrid strap is great. I don’t foresee having to change it. I like it as it is. The soft black silicone with inset brown textured leather strap has one big rubber keeper. It feels good and works well.
These SRPEs use the now standard Seiko5 42.5 mm case, with crown at 4 o’clock. The bezel inserts have no numbers or lume. They have the 4R36 movement with day/date and have standard 100m WR. If I was to get picky, these Seiko 5s are a big tall and big for my normal tastes, but at 46mm length with a 20mm lug width, they don’t overwhelm my medium size wrist. I would like them to be sized like the SRPKs at 38mmx44.5. They definitely have some presence. Because of the unique design details they are interesting, but still a bit subdued. With no bright colors or much contrast they are not loud as divers can be. Overall its a completely different feel than most Seiko 5 diver-style models.
I did not see the SRPE79, the silver version, until about year later than I got my gold SRPE80. Had I seen them together, I probably would have chosen the gold one. When I did see the 79, I liked it instantly, too! After I ordered it, I did have a bit of buyer’s remorse until it arrived. While they are clearly related, they each have their own personality. I liked it even more than I thought I would. With the silver/grey textured dial the SRPE79 is probably even more monochromatic than the 80. Maybe even a little more stealth. The case, dial and bezel are about the same. On the gold one the darker dial has a little more contrast.
So I guess I’m getting the SRPEs to express my love of the quirky, more theatrical dive-style. It lets me be different my way. Its a Seiko, clearly, its dive-style, but it is unusual.
Fashion Watch?
I always think of what wrist watches mean now in an era when almost everyone has a cell phone or tablet or laptop with time and date instantly visible. I especially think about it when it comes to diver-style watches, or even actual certified diver watches, or chronographs. We don’t need watches. Divers use computers, and very few people need chronographs. We where them as style accessories, fashion. Seiko 5s are not tool watches, really. They are fashion watches. Even the old SKX with 200m WR was mostly worn for style, with the capability of being a dive watch if you wanted it to be. It wasn’t a quartz watch and, it was cheap.
You could say Seiko 5s are Sports watches. What is a Sports Watch? A cross between a tool watch and a dress watch? Is it something that is more casual and “everyday” than a dress watch and not as specialized as a tool watch? Why does Seiko show over 80 Seiko 5 styles, not including LEs and Collabs, on their site? Because we all need an affordable way to express our personal style. This is me.
Let the Old Times Roll
Maybe the plethora of Seiko 5 styles is to make the mod route less enticing? Not only that, Seiko has been issuing reinterpretations/recreations of old popular Seiko 5s to the point that you don’t even have to hunt down your old favorites on eBay. You can now get a reasonable facsimile with upgraded movement. Most are limited editions with higher prices. They are not quite the same, but a lot easier to live with. With some Seiko used the new standard SK5 platform with dial and bezel of older model. Others are new cases similar to the originals. Some use the old shield logo.
Seiko 5 Sports Field
In the 90s, I never really thought much about watch size? My little Swatches and Fossils and Timex Camper were small. I never thought of my G-Shock as big? My Gruen Soviet was only 38.5mm, (but had 10mm more of canteen crown.) So, into the 2000s, when I got my SNK805 I never thought much about its size. I just liked the military pilot/field look and that it was an auto. I also liked the strap.
I can’t even remember what year I purchased it? I really can’t?! I will guess between 2010-2012? Based on the serial number, I would say it was produced in 2009. I had it long enough to wear out the original strap. It has some scratches on the perimeter of the crystal and some scuffs at 12 o’clock on the bezel. Otherwise the case is in good shape.
It was my first exhibition case back watch as well as my first dual language day feature watch. It was also an automatic which I had not been wearing. So, it was quite exotic to me.
7S26B
I have had some issues with the 7S26 movement. This has a 7S26B installed. I think that version of the movement was released in 2008. So, a production date of 2009 seems right for the watch? At some point a few years ago it went wonky on me. Maybe it was magnetized, I knocked the balance out, or just needed service. I tried to de-magnetize it with no effect. By this time, too, I had it on other straps. I had lost touch with a watchmaker I had been using, so took it to a few sketchy places. One shop wanted $400 to service it! Eventually I made it back to my trusted watchmaker, who doesn’t really divulge all he does, and had it fixed for around $150, as I recall. I also found a new original strap replacement on eBay.
As I got seriously into watches and my Timexes, Bulovas and other bigger, more expensive divers, I really have not worn the watch much. I still love the look of it and have studied more in writing this. I will admit that not being able to wind it is a slight irritation. The 4R36 movement on the new Seiko 5s is an improvement.
If I wanted to trade in my old SNKL805, its new replacement would be a SRPH29. (there is the SRPJ89, a 36mm in a darker green.) More on those later. The SRPH29 is a bigger and arguably better watch. I have not decided to make a purchase of one of these new guys, yet. Again, its not that I really have anything against them, its just that there is nothing that really excites me to spend more money, especially when I am trying to thin out my collections.
The old and the new, at first glance, look very similar. Sizing now is 39.4 mmx48.1 mm from 37.2 mm x 42. Most noticeable is the larger crown at 3 o’clock instead of 4 o’clock. To confuse you even more, there is a new set of 36mm styles with the pilot style look of the old SNK805; the SRPJ87 and SRPJ89. The hand set change is probably the second biggest difference and maybe controversial? What look do you prefer; the old sword or the new tapered syringe? To me this is interesting because I feel the SNK8 series is a cross between a pilot and a field watch in dial layout. Really more a pilot? The triangle, sector, and sword hands are classic pilot. Also the main numbers mark 5 min intervals, not hours and the inner track is hours, not military hours. The newer hand is more a classic field hand. Overall, I think Seiko wanted to keep the new as close as possible, so at first glance, they do just that.
If I was motivated to go for anew Seiko 5 Field style, it would be something like the above SRPJ85 which popped up around 2023. To me, it looks more the field business than my old SNK805 or the SRPH29? For one thing it is still in the 36mm range. I also like the fauxtina lume. The SRPG range which was earlier, and looked similar, was in the 39mm sizing. The dial layout is more classic field with the inner 24hr time track. Having not tracked the new Seiko 5s closely, I didn’t really realize the SRPGs ans SRPJs were different sizes. I probably just assumed they were the same thing when I saw them? Just like the fact that there are 38mm versions in the new SK5/diver-style range now. For some reason, I just like a field watch in the 36-38mm range? It just feels right. Its not much different, but on my wrist, getting into the 39-40mm range slightly changes the character of many watches. The SRPH29, more of a pilot watch look, seems OK at 39-40mm.
Final thoughts
I have to wrap this up even though there still so much to discuss with the new Seiko 5 Sports. As the referenced Fratello article above mentioned, Seiko fans are still not over the “replacement” of the SKX. This is all Seiko’s fault. They keep using the SKX to sell the new Seiko 5 Sports even though they are not the same thing?
But, if you can get away from the old SKX and just embrace the new Seiko 5s, there is a lot to offer. For what they are spec-wise, there is something for everybody. For me, there is the more basic problem of not being a fully converted Seiko fan. For the reasons covered above, as well as pricing and not quite hitting my specific buttons, so to speak. I need more uniqueness and Seiko comes across as the archetypal watch too much. Everything is done well to the point that you feel like there is nothing new! They are the standard for their price point, like a Honda car but lacking some excitement?
As the years have rolled by since 2019, the line has begun to offer some 38mm dive-style and some 36mm field-style versions. To me that really added to the appeal of some of the new 5s. Also, the LEs and Collabs have provided some uniqueness.
Even though I am hesitant to acquire more new 5s now, that doesn’t mean I wont be back here soon swooning over a Seiko 5 in the future.
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