A Slice of the Big Weekender Pie
Ten years ago, Timex was doing things differently. “Aren’t we all”, you might say?Well, yes. I suppose we all, even corporations, need to keep moving forward. I keep going back to the pre-COVID days because the watch market place was so different. Timex used to have fewer releases with many variations of each release. I’m not sure when it started, but Timex released a slew of vintage looking Weekenders (and Standards) that I did not know of at the time, but since have become very interested in. I am calling them Vintage Weekenders or Archive Weekenders because I think most of them came out around the 2016-19 time frame I associate with the Archive campaign. These are the subject of this post.
What is a Weekender?
Good question. I know it as a simple, cheap, round watch with curved edges and lugs. The case, lugs and bezel are so simple, thin and timeless, they disappear and all you see is a dial and stick hands. The flat-sided case and lugs facilitates a base metal casting. A quartz, no date(mostly) movement, except for the chronographs. 30m WR. It should have Indiglo backlighting. I know it when I see it. I know it from about 2010 until now and it has been made in 31mm, 37mm, 38mm, 40mm, and 43mm and as a three hand or a chronograph. Simple thin, no serif numbers and usually a 24 hr track inboard like a field watch. Another feature of the “standard” weekender is the high sloping rehaut around the perimeter of dial that carries the minute hash marks that makes the dial look deep set. This goes away in the special vintage-inspired models. I suppose I should be able to tell you when the first Weekender appeared, but I don’t know. Lets say 2010. Most are silver polished finish, bit it has been made in black, gold and many other browns and greys as you will see later.
Recently Timex released an updated Weekender line that actually had “weekender” or “we.” printed right on the dial! A new version in 37mm or 40mm also has a date complication and the infamous cyclops magnifier! They also have a new Weekender chronograph that looks nothing like a classic weekender? What?! As mentioned, the Weekender case/bezel shape; the watches appear bigger than they are. All you see head on is a dial with a thin surround. So, proportionally the dial is bigger and the case is smaller. For example is the case is 40mm wide the dial is approximately 35mm!
My First Weekender
In 201X I bought a Weekender three-hand, 38mm, brass plated with polished silver case, cream dial, with an olive woven single-pass strap. I don’t know the model number now. It is comparable to the more recent T2N651. It could just be an earlier version of that model number. From my experience, when a Timex has a model number like that – a six-digit one usually starting with T, it is a discount store style. It was on sale, too. It is one of the most common Weekenders. I honestly can’t remember what year it was. The date code is for 2011, but I can’t believe that was the year I got it? I’m going to guess at 2013-15? Back then, I don’t know how long Timex held on to old stock as sale items.
I got it because it had a slightly vintage feel and the olive strap gave it a slightly military feel. It was plain, simple, but not so generic looking as to be an Easy Reader. I liked more minimalist designs then and more modern things, I might say. It has rounded edges and has a friendly casual personality that appeals to pretty much everyone. It is the ultimate unisex watch.
I don’t wear it much any more, but at the same time, I don’t dislike it either. I don’t expect much of it and it is a classic Timex product. It is cheap, works, stays out of the way. As a fashion accessory, it goes with anything since it is so neutral. I love the strap and have never changed it even though it is almost De rigueur to have multiple straps for a Weekender in the preppy mode. At this writing I discovered the battery needed replacing.
The Vintage Look
I don’t want to talk about the mainstream Weekender or the new Weekender. I want to talk about a niche group of weekender and related models that popped up about 10 years ago. Truth be told, I never was very excited about Weekenders, mostly ignoring them until I saw some of the Vintage ones. Even then I ignored those because they were just that, Weekenders. I continually ran into them as I collected Mk1, Allied, and Navi models that were part of the Archive campaign.
These particular Weekenders that are the subject of this post were accompanied later by some related Standard line models and other special models like the Midgets. When I try to describe them quickly, I say they remind me of vintage military or trench watch styles that may have a small seconds and 24 hr tracks, and expressive number styles. If the Weekender case was styled as a modern, simplified version of a 1918 watch, these vintage versions intended to take it back in time. What interested me most was the case finishes.
The majority of the Weekenders in this group were chronographs. This is interesting since I have mixed feeling about wearing chronographs, but I just love the colors and finishes in the designs. I believe, as with divers, 90% of chronograph wearers don’t need or use a chronograph’s functions. They just look “watchy”. Often with the preowned Timex chronos I buy, the sub dials are not even set to function properly.
As I try to sort out these Weekenders I see that at least three color schemes came in pairs; a three-hand no date and a chrono with a 30-min sub dial and a 10ths sub dial and small seconds dial and date at 4 o’clock. The chronos seem to be the easier to find to my chagrin. More of them were probably produced. I am more of a three-hand guy. They are just simpler, less fuss, easier to read and, like I said, I don’t really need a chronograph 95% of the time.
In the image above you see a matching pair with gunmetal case, dark brown dial and brown/gold numbers. I really like all three color schemes. I have a good story about getting a TW2P85800 repaired by Timex, which I wrote about two years ago. The short version is Timex lost the watch I sent in, but I eventually got it back 16 months later.
Also, some styles may have been limited to regions outside of North America. I see listings for some models only from Japan, for example. Timex is eminently collectible. There is active competition for many models in online shopping circles. If you are not a Timex wearer or collector, you might think they are everywhere and easy to get. You would be wrong. When I started collecting Timex Archive six or eight years ago, I thought it would be easy to find the ones I liked, but, I learned quickly you must act fast. The grey market is getting exhausted. I also don’t usually want to pay top dollar. I look for lower prices. For this reason I do miss some opportunities. Of course things always randomly become available, usually when you are not looking for them! Recently I was able to find a TW2R(P)85900, but without the original olive fabric NATO strap. This is unfortunate since the original straps are an important part of the overall identity of Timex designs even though we often switch straps for various reasons.
In the above image from a Japan source are pictured what I think are the three original 2016 special weekenders. I call them special because I don’t know what else to call them? Vintage? As I said earlier 2016 was about when the Archive campaign started, but these did not fall under that heading, I don’t think. What inspired this group? All of these interest me a lot more than the standard Weekender look.
The case colors are gunmetal/black dial/dk brown leather, antique gold/cream dial/tan leather and antique silver/cream dial/olive fabric/leather, and the should be a chronograph to match each one of the 3-hands. I particularly like the antique silver.
You can see how the dial looks closer to the crystal because the sloping rehaut is gone. The hour and minute marks are pushed onto the dial making everything more compact. 5-minute numbers are added to the perimeter. The number style is different
The model numbers in this Japan image are confusing to because I am familiar with the “R” in TW2R85700, for example, being a “P” as in TWTP85700. Is the R for the Asian market? Also, some of the early Vintage 3-hand Weekenders have a date code of 21X, which is unique and could mean a 2015 date. This would make sense in that the 3-hands were released first in 2015, followed by the chronos in 2016.
Above pictured is the 2016 antique gold chronograph TW2P85300 which pairs with eh 3-hand TW2P85700. It is on a nylon single-pass zulu type strap with brass hardware. I acquired the watch second hand and it was not on the OEM leather NATO. Like the 3-hand is has a cream dial, silver hands and a greenish tint to the numbers. There is no lume on the numbers since there is the Indiglo back light.
Other Variants
Along with this core of six Weekender models, there were later styles that had gunmetal or black pvd cases. One of these is the TW2P85200 chronograph. It has a dark gunmetal case, black dial with beige sub dials, second sweep and green numbers. It came on a nice fabric/leather NATO with an “aged” silver hardware. It has a 2018 date code, so that puts towards the end of the Archive period.
By this point I don’t think there were matching sets of 3-hand and chronograph–just the chronographs. This model is sort of a cross-over in that it has the gunmetal case, beige details and tan strap, but then has a black dial and bold green numbers that come across as more modern. Then the black versions became available.
Another black model is the TWF3C8420. Black-on-black changes the personality of a watch. Generally I am not interested in that look, but it can be fun occasionally. The TWF3C8420 I have that was purchased preowned, has a date code for 2019 and has a definite modern feel even though the case and dial layout is the same. The model number is very strange? have not seen this arrangement of letters and numbers. It makes me think it was for another region or a limited production. In fact, these last two chronographs remind me of in between versions; styles made up from left over components.
Stock images I have seen of the TWF3C8420, show a painted metallic grey hand set, but this has a polished hands all around. It really doesn’t work well for legibility or appearance and fit for a vintage theme. A matte grey or white would have been much better. This is another reason I think it was made up form left over parts. The nylon NATO has black PVD hardware to match the case. The actual nylon material also seems to have a an unusual shimmer to it?
My last cross-over example is another black case/black dial chrono. The TW2P97500 changes things up by having all the numbers, hands and markings in a uniform sand color. Its interesting how small variations really change the look of a watch. On the tan leather NATO strap with black hardware, it has a nice balance of modern and vintage. Like when assessing many Timex lines, there are so many variations it can get confusing determining what you are looking at! For a while I got this TW2P97500 confused with the TW2P85200 above. The latter had a gunmetal case with a mix of grey, green and beige elements while this one is black with uniformly sand dial elements. You can see them next to each other in the lead photo.
Related Vintage Styles
Another interesting model that coincided with the 3-hand vintage Weekender line was the small-seconds TW2P86700. It is a model one doesn’t see often. I can’t remember reading any review about it either? It cold have been released in 2015, but I’ve only seen watches dated 2016.
It has similarities to the TW2P85800 in colors, but the case is a bit over 2mm thicker to accommodate the small seconds movement. It’s the same thickness as the chronograph, so is probably a modified version of the M921 chronograph movement without stop watch functions. The small seconds dial looks identical in placement and size as the chronograph models and there is a funny ghost position with the crown, so that makes sense.
The large hour numbers lack the outline that the numbers on the TW2P85800 have, so legibility is hampered in low light or angles. The rust color on top of the dark brown dial is hard to see in many lighting conditions. It definitely gives the faded vintage effect but is a failure for allowing one to quickly read the time. The dark grey hands are also hard to see since they do not contrast with the dial enough. You could also say this is also the case with the TW2P85800 hands. It makes you think the designers purposely wanted a muted appearance for vintage effect, but never really tested the end product for legibility? That said, you can rely on the Indiglo back lighting.
Lets talk about the Timex Standard in a Weekender body. If you follow Timex, they have released lots of different Standard styles over the years. I don’t know what makes a Standard a Standard, because they appear if many forms. This one could be a Euro model? You won’t see many of these. I originally mistook this for one of the Weekenders.
This TW2T2100 with black treatment is a more modern, sporty take on the Weekender style. It has the same 40mm case and layout as the other vintage chronographs, but the number treatment and the hands change its personality. It also has tiny tachymeter track on the dial perimeter.
The black case, black dial and black strap feel modern as do the green lume on the hands and numbers. The hands are painted a metallic flat grey-ish silver color that I like. This was done on some Archive MK1s and Allied models. It is easier to see the hour and minute hands against a dark dial–better than the early vintage Weekenders. The most distinguishing feature is the onion crown? This sets it apart from the other Weekenders discussed above.
There is one drawback with this design; because the numbers are light colored, they don’t show up when back lit with the Indigo in low light. It has to be pretty dark. So, each style has it’s own little quirks.
I also know of a TW2U89500, which might be a Euro Standard model, too, that is a similar format; black case and onion crown with two-piece strap and tan dial markings. It also has a tachymeter. Maybe this was an attempt to use up some Weekender dials and cases?
Welton/Midget
I want to close this out with a couple of designs that are similar to the Vintage 40mm Weekenders, but that took the whole vintage thing a step further. The Midget or Welton is a step up in quality and concept over the Weekenders. I think they were produced between 2017 and 2023? I mostly know it as a Japan release with the name Midget. The Waterbury Welton name be from North American or Euro regions starting in 2018. Supposedly the inspiration was the 100th anniversary of the Ingersoll Midget, a pocket watch converted to a wrist watch. Japan listings show versions with the name Midget printed on the dial. More often my searches show the cream dial/brass case version. The Black dial/ antique silver case has been more elusive.
I have an example dated 2023; the cream dial antique brass 38mm case version. The case differs from the Weekender in that it has a step-down bezel, rounded mid case and wire lugs to replicate a WWI trench watch. The wire lug gap is 19mm instead of 20. The number style and hand set are different and there is the small seconds dial. The crown also differs from both the vintage Weekender and the Standard. Like the onion shape but not wholly round, it has the tapering bottom that makes it easy to pull out. It resembles one on an old Flieger style pilot watch.
They came on Bund-style U.S. made leather straps with buckle to match the case. It is a very restrained design that could have been over done. The wider lower portion of the strap could be removed if you want a simpler narrow strap option. Its a fun strap and one I’ve not seen on any other Timex releases.
I have read that there are three case finish versions, two silver (tumbled, or brushed satin) and the pvd brass I have. So, you may see the cream dial with a silver case. For more on this and a more detailed review from The Time Bum, check this link.
Final Thoughts
If you like the trench watch look via Timex, you have two options here. The bigger, less expensive route with the Weekenders or the more smaller, more costly replica Midgets. Either way, they may be hard to find?
At about the same time the Midgets were released, Vario was beginning it’s line of automatic 1918 trench watches. If you are not a Timex collector, going that route might be the easiest, especially since the cost of a Midget could be more than a Vario!
Again, what attracted me to the vintage Weekenders was the case finishes as well as the casual vintage vibe. They are best on canvas or leather though the right muted colors in a ribbed nylon strap might give them some pop. Personally, a 38mm size would be even better, but, at the time Timex was safe at 40mm to cover the most bases. In the end, its a fashion accessory that tells time. Because iits a Weekender, it can slip into any occasion without fuss.
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