More Marine Star Contemplating
I did it. I broke my own rules and went against some of my earlier positions. I got a new Bulova Marine Star. By new I mean not preowned, but from retailer. Still, it is not a new release. I got a Marine Star Series C with Precisionist movement; 96B431 with yellow dial and black rubber. It is a model released two years ago in 2024. My first impression was negative on seeing these two years ago. I have written, “too big, too complicated” for me. I guess I was dragging the Series A and B and bigger C chronos onto the more simple 43mm C. Times change, attitudes change. At the time I did not really consider the unique Precisionist movement it had. I was mainly looking at form and size.
I’m going to discuss both this new Marine Star and some more older ones. Its a big deal for me to get a new 43mm since I am used to my 35-39mm older ones. Its a whole new experience in Marine Stars for me.
Over the past two years I have come to appreciate the newer, bigger Marine Star C. They were too pricey for my normal purchase price ceiling. So, that allowed me an excuse for ignoring them. There was no way I was going to buy a new one at full price a year or two ago. But, I kept looking at them and reading about them and got to really like the idea of a yellow dial. I have retreated on my stance against watches over 40mm because I came to realize it depends on several fit factors. Also there is the fact that I owned many 42-43mm Timex Allied Chronos and diver-ish models!
Another appeal of the Marine Star C is is the 12-sided bezel. I have long been interested in the Tag Heuer Aquaracer look and hoping to come across an old one I liked in my price range. None are in my price range. There is a glut of old Tag Heuers out there because most are over-priced. Anyway, the more I looked at the Bulova, the more I liked the bezel, the dial, the movement. It’s too soon for many used 96B431s to be on the market. I looked for preowned ones, but they were scarce. Anyway, there are lots of them new on sale now everywhere.
At about this time, Bulova is releasing the new Marine Star automatic Series B 41mm divers, which are making these older Precisionist Cs sale material. I could have gotten one (quite a bit)cheaper somewhere else, but I needed to use my Macy’s card and I don’t have to pay shipping. Mostly I just wanted to act now after thinking about it for so long. So, I feel a little guilty for not waiting longer until a preowned deal or deeper sale popped up.
Another reason I have been shy of spending on one is I recently got a new Caravelle Sea Hunter. So, after the Caravelle and this yellow MS, the new auto 41mm MS is off the table for a long time. Funny thing is, I did bump into the new auto Marine Star inadvertently last month. While my wife was looking at shoes, I wandered over to the watch counter and tried one on! I didn’t even realize it was a Marine Star or know what size it was at the time. Once I had it on, I thought, “this fits nice. What is it?” Because I don’t buy new watches regularly, I don’t like to try them on when I know I am not buying.
Precisionist
Unusually for me, the movement was a big part of this acquisition. I am fascinated by the auto-like sweep of the second hand. Taken from the Bulova site, the “NM10 HPQ Precisionist is a movement featuring a 3-pronged quartz crystal with a frequency of 262 kHz that is 8 times greater than standard quartz, leading to an accuracy of seconds a year.” This is a high-performance movement and I like that it is a quartz. I am a supporter of quartz for the reason that mechanical watches are costly to make and costly to repair. That said, this was a $695 rubber, $795 bracelet watch at original list price. That is expensive to me, though cheap or entry level to most watch enthusiasts. What I mean is that it is not a cheap quartz watch.
This is a well-built, nice-looking trio of watches. Each has it’s appeal but my first choice is the yellow with black rubber. If I must choose, I am a strap guy more than a bracelet guy. They both are quick-release, so it would be interesting to see the off-white dial 96B426 on rubber, or the yellow on the bracelet. With the rose gold 98B421, you are stuck with the black rubber. I’m pretty sure there is no rose bracelet option. The Bulova site says it is a silicone material, but it doesn’t feel like the silicone I know? Maybe it is the HNBR which I think is a less costly FKM-like material. So far, I like it.
There is a lot to like here even without the bracelet. The facets of the case, the ceramic bezel insert, the dial texture pattern, the hour markers and hands are all nicely done. I just like everything. Yellow is something I would not normally consider because you don’t really expect it with a Marine Star which tend to be more dress than sport. This series of Bulovas sort of deviates from the expected classic diver design language. I can see where some might prefer the more familiar design cues of the Series B. Its a bigger, bolder look compared to my usual choices in watches. At 12.3 mm thick, it seems a thicker than I expected. I don’t know how much room the Precisionist movement needs? I suspect Bulova made this watch thicker to balance the horizontal size?
The dial type is crowded at the top. To make room for the main event Precisionist with logo above the six, the Bulova, Marine Star cursive and star circle are all pushed up under the 12. It would have been better to make the Precisionist stuff smaller and put it up top, under Bulova then the Marine Star stuff below, to even things out? The hour markers, hands are like some Marine Star Bs and even resemble some earlier Marine stars such as the 2006 98C72 pictured below.
Several Marine Stars in the 90s and early 2000s had some textured dials, but it was usually only part of the dial. This new series features a fully textured dial on all three colors The pattern is like a Japanese graphic print wave texture.
Is it a Diver?
Well, no. Its sort of the tradition of Marine Stars to be a sporty, dressy almost diver. Yes, you could dive with it, swim, snorkel, what ever water sport you choose. There is no lumed pip or gripping perimeter notches on the bezel. There is a count-up bezel, 200m WR, a screw-in crown, sapphire, pretty good lume on the hour markets and hands. There is even a diving extension on the bracelet. Bulova calls it a sport watch.
This place is just where the Marine Star lives. It has a multi-personality unlike say, a Citizen Promaster diver. The Marine Star can be a casual sport watch or a bit dressier, or an almost tool watch when you want to get wet. Some watch observers will say Bulova’s are generally over-priced. I can see that argument when you start making comparisons to some micro brand offerings. Then, on the other hand, I also see many Bulova’s as an everyman’s nice watch. It stays within the mall watch world in many ways and has trouble moving into the enthusiast or tool spaces. Every watch is a compromise in some way and Bulova is keeping the Marine Star in it’s versatile niche. At the price you can get one of these for, it is a good value. Go ahead, compare specs.
The Bezel in the Room
Ok, lets get this out in the open. Diver traditionalists don’t like this 12-sided bezel. There, I said it. These Marine Stars have a distinctive look that you can’t get away from. It is big and shiny. So, you either like it or don’t. It doesn’t blend in with the typical diver look. Maybe that’s why so many are on sale? If you like Aquaracers, you might be OK with this look. But there is another compromise/decision by Bulova on these; no fluting/notching on perimeter of bezel for more grip. This again is the difference between a tool diver and a almost diver. To turn this bezel you are applying force to the 12 corners of the polished bevel-edged bezel. It is not as easy to grip; your fingers slide. I think this was a mistake, but probably in keeping with the MS tradition; More style than function. Some teeth on the bezel would really change the attitude of this watch. In the past there have been 12-sided bezels on Marine Stars that did not rotate.
It’s a nice looking bezel with it’s ceramic insert and polished angles but the subtle numbers and marks are not easy to read in the shine, so again not that functional. That is the contradictory purpose of this bezel. It is so prominent yet not that functional? The case and lugs and crown guards, too, have corners and angles and flat surfaces to match. This is not a curvy watch. I think part of the appeal for me is that it is different from most of my watches.
The overall yellow and black is very sporty and actually kind of non-Marine Star? Between the three varieties, there is something for everybody. Bold yellow, classic off-white on bracelet, or dressy rose. There are also blue and black dials for other regions. I have read reviews of the “white” on bracelet version. It seems to be the most popular? As with wearing all steel bracelets, there is the weight factor to consider. Sometimes the heft is desirable, sometimes a burden. Starting at 22mm its a wide strap that tapers to 20mm. To me, with a 6.75 in. wrist, 22mm straps are noticeable. Most of my watches are 20mm or 18mm. A strap or bracelet of just 2mm more seems to make a watch look bigger. This was the situation with the 41mm Timex Deepwater Reef. But this watch is 43mm and bold, so the 22mmm lug width is not as noticeable.
Looking Back
Now I have to get back into my favorite era of Marine Stars; the ’80s and ’90s. Yes, I have found a few more gems even when trying to cut back.
Watch brands generally don’t like to make old catalog information available or repair old watches. The amount of information available decreases proportionally with the price of the watch when new. They don’t like to talk about old models until they are doing a re-issue and then only enough to hype the new release. Information on the original inspiration is always sketchy.
Information on ’80s and ’90s mall watches is hard to come by. We rely on collectors and enthusiasts and older watchmakers to provide the grit when we want to find out about our discoveries. I suppose this lead up into these older Marine Stars shows my frustration at not knowing more about the times when they came to be.
Let’s go back thirty-three years and have a look at this 200m WR 98C22P. This is classic stuff; 38mm, 20mm bracelet tapering to 16mm. Two-tone, black dial, pill-shaped (or bath tub) hour markers, Mercedes hands, lollipop, screw-down crown, diver extension, uni-directional bezel with aluminum count up insert, lumed pip. Swiss quartz movement.
This is 1993 Bulova sparring with Tag Heuer for sport/dive honors. The size is perfect form me at 38x 44x 9.5mm thick. This particular case shape is a little more aggressive that the typical round or barrel shape of most of my old Marine Stars. It has the flank flare on the left to balance out the crown guards and the lugs are short, hence the 44mm length.
The big problem with this example is that it has been heavily polished. That’s probably why it was available. Still, with these being hard to find, its the only way to experience them.
Riffing on a Favorite
I have shown you some of these before. This series of 1998 Marine Stars has been one of my favorites with its rounded starfish shapes. Those came with a navy blue dial, 96B07, and a white dial with gilt, 98B99. Some had fold-over clasps and some jewelry clasps. This 98G69 combines blue, gilt, jewelry clasp and a uncommon dial color. This dial construction was also used on another Swiss movement Marine Star I have covered.
I’m not sure how to describe it other than a reflective starburst under a clear layer. It is a royal blue color with a brighter, more dramatic reflection than the navy ones. When I purchased it I did not realize the shade of blue, but was just more interested in it being blue with gilt. I just thought it would be the same blue as the 96B07. I suppose it was intended to be a more dressy version.
It measures 36mm, 39mm with crown. 44.5mmm long. The bracelet tapers from 20mm to 18mm. So, its a pretty compact little guy that still has lots of personality. When the light is right, I find myself staring at all that is going on with the round shapes, blue and gold. In low light the gilt markers really sparkle more than on the standard navy/silver model.
This design language is truly from another time. It was born from the Tag Heuer S/el days. Its a look you either love or hate. Not many watches now use these organic shapes. This one stays on the dressy side of sport especially with the small jewelry clasp.
Whale of a Watch
This 1998 model 98G21 of a Marine Star is just nuts. When I first saw it, I did not know what to think? Whale tails, seriously? This is beyond S/el style. This is literal marine life. Its almost like a custom made piece or collaboration. I wondered what inspired this. There were many Marine Star designs from 1998 that incorporated the S/el curves in the bracelet links, so someone must have see a whale tail in there and went with it.
I can also remember that in the ’80s and 90s the Save the Whales movement was popular. In a way, it goes with the previous watch–also from 1998–which reminds me of a starfish. There are even whale tails on the bezel and crown guards! Aside from that, these may be the smallest crown guards I have seen?!
When compared to most other Marine Stars of this vein from that prolific 1998 year, it is not remarkable other than in it’s bracelet. The dial and bezel are pretty ho-hum. Almost an after thought to the bracelet. It seems as if the design team started with the bracelet, then rushed a watch to go with it. The case is nondescript, the dial a bit boring, the hands weak–though these hands have been used before. The Bulova and Marine Star logos printed on the dial look too thin and small. The whole thing just feels cheap? It sort of has the look of a fake Bulova. This example too has obvious glue dots around some hour markers. They could have been repaired?
Its funny that when you get into collecting several varieties of one watch type, you generally accept them all and like some more than others. The collector side of you wants to have all varieties even though you might not really like some versions. My tastes are already in a narrow portion of the wide Marine Star spectrum. There are a lot of Marine Stars I really don’t like. However, some models are just hard to consider because you find details irritating for whatever reason. Even for me this one is borderline catch and release. Condition can be a factor, too.
It has characteristics of so many of these Marine stars that I love, but at the same time lacks quality build and coherent design. Those were different times and Bulova was churning out an amazingly large variety of very similar models. Some design just don’t work as well. It measures 37mm x 42mm x 9mm thick. The bracelet is about 19.5mm tapering to 18mm and has a diver extension(!).
I just realized while writing this that the Bulova “B” on the clasp has a slight whale tail look, too. A curved notch. The thing is this type style has been used on all the Bulova logos from this era, but I never noticed it before. On the Bulova logotype on the dials it is printed so small it is barely noticeable.
Outta Here
So ends another Marine Star post. You know I have a soft spot for Bulovas in general and love my 90s marine Stars. Now I have ventured into a modern Precisionist version. Will I get the vintage inspired 41mm auto in the future? You never know.
Its interesting to compare the old and the new. Build quality is so much better now with new manufacturing technology. Expectations are much higher now from watch buyers. The old Marine Stars are more fashion watches with standard, inexpensive quartz movements. Prices have probably doubled since 1998 for a comparable watch.
Watches are more of a luxury item now with sapphire crystals, ceramic bezel inserts and higher water resistance. This new Precisionist movement is not a normal quartz movement either. If the 96B431 had a “normal” quartz movement like a Miyota 2315 or GM12, mineral crystal, and no ceramic bezel insert, it probably would have listed at $150-200 less like some of the Series B models. It is priced higher than the new 41mm autos that use a low-end 8200 movement.
I would have preferred the new 43mm Marine Star C to be a couple of millimeters smaller, but my wrist can handle living large(and loud) sometimes. I see it as a sunny day watch. The weak link to me is the functionality of the bezel. The star of the show is the movement.
Even though things are very different from then and now, the Marine Star has remained it that not-quite-a-diver sport watch arena. Today’s 96B431 is a much more capable watch, but still not officially a diver. It is designed to have a wider appeal for multiple occasions. I don’t always understand Bulova’s rationale for it’s product offerings. For example, I think I get the concept of the Caravelle Sea Hunter, but am not sure about the Marine Stars? I could say that even extends up to Citizen in general. Sometimes their releases just seem weird to me coming from an enthusiast perspective. I can’t tell who the target is for some models. But, then again, I try to see the watches for what they are and not compare apples to oranges.
I would like to see Bulova go back into its early ’90s catalogs and reissue some Marine Stars like it did with the Caravelle Sea Hunter. Bling is kind of the thing with Marine Stars, even now. So, there is a lot to choose from the archives. Maybe that’s a good idea for a post?
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