Seiko Big Date SUR 323
I’m going to start doing something new. Instead of so many posts about series of watches or multiple watches, I’m going to try to just get in quicker posts about individual watches I like. This may allow me to write about more watches faster without getting bogged-down in too much research or data or specifications.
So then, welcome to Random Watches number 1. I picked a Seiko I’ve had for about a year I think. It is a one off for me in that I don’t have any other Seikos like it and did not know about it until I saw it in a watchmaker’s display case. I did not research it before buying. I just saw it and had to have it.
I found it in a nearby city when I was taking in one of my Bulova Marine Stars for repair. You see, my usual watchmaker is hard to pin down and not a great communicator. He sometimes leaves the country for extended periods and can take a long time to repair a watch. He does great work, but I don’t think it is his main occupation? So when I went off to find a watchmaker to replace the movement in one of my 90s Marine Stars I saw this Seiko SUR. I saw it when I dropped-off my Bulova, then bought it when I picked up the Bulova! Apparently, people often leave watches for repair then never come back to get then?
Why I like it
The main thing I love about this watch is the unusual case finish. I think Seiko calls it a Pewter finish? The 41mm case and bezel are a dull, blasted-like finish, but is it a ion-plated type finish. It reminds me of a Parkerized finish on an old Hamilton or such. Maybe that’s why Seiko did it? Lug to lug is 48mm.
The other thing is that it was a Big Date watch and I don’t have any other Big Date watches. At six o’clock is a big, black-framed double date window. Two date wheels overlap, the left wheel is above the right wheel. Black numbers on white background. The quartz movement is the 6N76 Big Date.
On the dial are stencil-style numbers that I love. I understand that many people hate this kind of fake military themed watch with stereotypical stencil style, but I’m the guy who likes it! The hands are what I call a bayonet style. They remind me of the minute hand on a Seiko Samurai. The knurling on the crown is great, too. The bezel is simple and flat with a slight bezel. It looks like a big washer. It has a flat, box, Hardex crystal and the case back is brushed stainless.
What I don’t like is the texture on the center sector of the dial. It is a basket weave or carbon fiber look that even I think is too much. It sort of goes with the texture of the hybrid nylon fabric-rubber strap. I like the olive drab color of the dial and, of course, the fauxtina lume on the hands and numbers. The 24hr marker track has numbers that are too small. It has an expansive presence on the wrist brought on by the thin bezel and stepped rehaut that slopes up to the crystal.
The Strap
Love it. It is a hybrid type with olive nylon fabric on top of black rubber. Tapers from 21mm to 18mm at the brushed buckle. There is one wide rubber keeper. No, they didn’t do the pewter finish on the buckle…I have written about hybrid style straps in various posts. They are one of my favorites, especially the Barton ones. However, I don’t like the sail cloth hybrids a few brands are selling. The big problem with this Seiko strap is that it is 21mm to go with the 21mm lug gap. Come on, Seiko! If you are going to do a 21mm gap, you need to have more OEM straps available.
You can’t get these straps from Seiko anymore and no one I know makes a 21mm hybrid? This one was really dirty and had developed a curved tail end that extended beyond the keeper over the years the previous owner had it. I gave it a good cleaning and am trying to train the tail end to lay flatter.
Family
There is a black dial, black case version of this watch, the SUR 325. It is nice looking but this pewter case is the one for me. I believe this watch family was released around 2016. From the serial number, I think mine is a 2019. There is a SUR 5X group of more basic sport watches in black and greys and a brushed bracelet also with the big date. Those don’t interest me. I like the military theme of the 323 and 325. There are some SUR 4X models without big date.
What is it?
I guess we put the SUR3 in the field watch category? An edgy field watch. Like I said there are decidedly non-military sport versions in the SUR5 series. It has the 24hr markers on the inner track like a field watch. It has 100m WR and is military olive drab. Its a bit big, but maybe that big date movement might need the space? I’d like to see it be 38mmx 46mm, but I can live with it. I suppose you could call it a military styled sport watch? As described above, it has a theatrical presence that pulls it out of field utility into a more fashion-forward experience.
Final Thoughts
It brings together a bunch of design bits that I like. Its an unusual, slightly funky watch, off the main path of military watches, while at the same time evokes some traditional military tool watch vibes. I could see a Seiko 5 riff on this one? It would probably have to lose the Big Date, but a 38mm with a 6 o’clock date window, this great finish and strap, same style hands and crown and more refined dial.
Sometimes you just like a watch before you put it into one of your categories. It might take a while to understand why. I enjoy wearing it.
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