The 40mm chrono is back, with a trade-off
How does it go? “If you can’t say something nice, don’t say anything at all”. I think I will be able to find something nice to say, but, like the new 40mm MK1 auto and the second 36mm manual releases, I’m left with a lot of questions. It’s good to see the Mk1 back. It’s just that its not the same kind of watch it was. I suppose I have trouble moving on. I don’t like to “review” a watch without using it for at least a bit. This is really more about my thoughts on MK1s in general.
Things have changed in the watch enthusiast world over the last eight to ten years. The pre-COVID MK1 line were the type of watch that is not considered a “serious” watch in today’s market. They were fashion heavy and spec light. I have covered those Archive era Mk1s in other posts. I really liked them and still do. Today’s watch fan is demanding more from their watches especially when many micro brands are delivering higher end specs and high value in comparison to the major brands.
Timex has been trying to reinvent itself to align with this movement during this time. The new Timex wants to be taken more seriously by the enthusiast crowd so is releasing watches at higher price points that provide more serious specs while at the same time cutting back on the type of watch considered a “throw-away fashion watch” at the lower end. Value is the key rather than price point. Prices have gone up for everything, so buyers want to get the most they can for those dollars.
The MK1 Chrono Then
If you are going to call a new watch a MK1 in 2026, you need to know what the MK1 before it was like. The 3-hand quartz lines in steel or aluminum were 40mm. The steel chronographs were 42mm x 49.5, the aluminum chronos came in at 40mm x 47mm. Water resistance was 30m. They all had three sub dials and a date window at 4 o’clock, using the M921 type movement. This movement can be a bit finicky but actually did more than the new one. Because of the back light, they use the big 2016 battery. They had minimal lume but had the Indiglo back lighting. Where the older ones crushed the newer ones was in choice of colors and finishes; there must have been 10 or 12 varieties each in 40mm or 42mm. The Mk1s have moved to a whole other category.
The MK1 Chrono Now
It is definitely a different watch in at least a few ways. First impression of a comparison is less of a military IWC look and more of a vintage look with the two sub dials for minutes and hours. It is a nice looking, but seemingly more generic vintage looking somehow. The round case and lugs are similar to older aluminum Mk1s, but different than the 42mm steel types. Basically this is a steel version of the previous aluminum 40mm case. Now for my “say something nice” moment: To me the best thing about this new Mk1 chrono is the screw-on case back. I have yet to master removing the snap-on backs for battery changes without some minor damage. The water resistance is now 50m. The high domed acrylic crystal and lug shape do feel much like the older aluminum Mk1 chronos. I’m OK with tn acrylic crystal. Enthusiasts will consider the movement an improvement too. An upgraded movement in the form of a mecha quartz hi-beat TMI VK64A, with no-date complication and better pusher feel.
The Indiglo is gone because its not serious. Lume is the route, but probably not up to snuff for micro brand comparisons. Lume costs money an TImex uses every aspect to keep costs down. The 40mm auto lume was weak on the dial. This is still a Timex, so compromises are the norm. This chrono seems to have more lume surface area on hands and the numbers and markers have lume. The auto does not have lumed numbers.
And then the Dial
I guess this is the twist for me; the new Mk1 chrono dial does not look like the old Mk1s. Like the new 40mm auto, the new chrono has lost the old Mk1 character. While the overall shape is there, I really want the triangle hour markers. Those sharks teeth and rounded end numbers really set the military tone. I need the drama, the link to the MIL-W-46374B. I need more greens, browns and blacks in dial and case. The MK1s are becoming another generic vintage-inspired Waterbury. Maybe they are trying to get the “Camper” look out of it?
There are things to like such as the hand set that is like the Archive MK1 chrono and the number style. They are great. The auto version got a different number style. But why make the 12 and 6 bigger? Like the 2016 Archive version, the word “Chronograph” on the dial. If you are going after the “enthusiast” market do you have to tell people this is a chronograph? The round hour markers are not bad they are just not a Mk1. At least the 3-hand auto version had a modified triangle more like a “home plate” shape. If this is a new MK1, make it look like the auto.
Strap and Bracelet
Ho-hum. This, again, is a pretty generic offering. They are quick-release now. Timex seems really scared to stray off the safe expected enthusiast spec list. Brushed steel-check, mecha quartz-check, vintage-inspired-check, screw-on back-check, no date-check, generic 3-link brushed steel bracelet-check, tan leather-check…The Cordura-type straps of the auto were pretty weak as well, but I suppose a spec upgrade? Where is the military drama, rugged faux-aged canvas or leather? The Archive straps were interesting. This is blah. I had to put my MK1 auto on a RSM camo with aged hardware to give it some life!
Final Thoughts
I’m not running out to get one. I did that with the new 40 auto and the new 36 manual wind and came out feeling a little empty. The old buzz was gone. It is a better spec watch, but a little boring. I continue to question where the Mk1 line is going. Three new Mk1s and each looks different? None really exciting. It’s hard to link them with the older ones. Timex is flailing around here trying to move upscale. It is a better watch in several ways, but has lost it’s identity and a lot of its personality.
A good article by Ariel Adams on A Blog to Watch recently, discussed the lack of target marketing to engage potential buyers. Is the buyer who bought the earlier MK1s the buyer that will buy this new one? The market has changed but I just think the earlier MK1s were more fun, if not as “serious” spec-wise. Timex, please tell me why this is a Mk1 and not a Waterbury? What is my take-away here?
I have to bring up the fashion aspect of this new line of MK1s. It has gone M.I.A. Where is the fun? Is having some color choices too much to ask? In the spirit of the old Mk1s, where is a green dial or a gunmetal case? Where are the fat triangle hour markers in aged lume? How about a brown case and a grey dial on aged canvas? There are so many cool finishes possible now and this is what we get? Where is the theater, the drama? If you want to have these plain Jane versions, fine, but have Galli and the gang go back and look at the Archive stuff and give us some flare, or flair, or both! Some more variety, too. Todd Snyder? Better yet, break the glass and pull the Nigel Cabourn alarm!
Its a better watch in some ways but not a better Mk1.
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